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The washers and clips sound like the
anchor pin to shoe retainers; if the brakes are similar to my 38 which I think
they are. Ernie and The Black Bitc_!! -----Original Message----- Hey there, don't
do any more until you read the shop manual. The front hubs
are not assembled anything like the rears. Front hubs have a small press
fit cap, followed by cotter pin, hub nut, washer, outer bearing, outer
race (press fit), inner bearing, inner race (press fit), and if you are
this far, followed by backing plate bolts, brake assembly w/backing plate,
seal/gasket/spacer, and finally the front axle w/backing plate mounting
surface in that order. There is little to no variation between
makes and models of the period. Photographs of this assembly appear in nearly any
general auto repair manual. Chrysler manuals at the OIC website from nearly any
year should offer enough information to put this together. Do not drive the car
until you are sure that the front hubs are installed correctly.
For the rears, you have seen the many posts about how
to remove the hubs. If you have broken two pullers, then I
will submit that you still have the wrong equipment/tools. Once you have
resummed with another puller, I want to remind that the axle nut MUST be used as a safety. While the
puller is on the car, and under tension, the drum can POP off at any time. If
part of you is in the way, you could be seriously hurt or killed. I have seen
these fly across a garage and go though the wall. If you get the front wheels working and are able to
drive the car a small amount you may be able to loosen the rears by
reinstalling the rear hub nuts, cotter pins, and wheels and drive the car
a short distance. Another post suggested swapping out the entire third
member, which may turn out to be your best solution. The job can be done and those rear drums will come
off. Based on your post, I am afraid that you are relying too much on this
list, and not using the proper manuals to provide procedures. If you don't have
a good shop manual, you may be able to find one in the public library, or on
the OIC, as mentioned. I recommend a thorough review before doing anything
more. Paul W. Ok guys well still the drums will not come off. Ive
broken my second puller. The reason I was trying to pull all four drums off
were because all four wheels were frozen and would not rotate. I put the car up
on blocks. A friend of mine was able to get the front drums off without
trouble. He then took the hub apart pulled the bearing etc. He has since moved
away do to a job he took . I figured once I get the rear drums off I would see
exactly how to put the front wheels back together. well the rear drums arnt
coming off but at least now the wheels turn. I thought would just put all
the tires back on and drive it maybe that would loosen the rear drums. I put
the bearings in the front back in the way I assumed they would go but one wont
spin. Also there are some parts that I am not familar with . Like these washers
that are two pressed together with a emery cloth type material inside. I looked
and looked on the chrysler website for a diagram of a wheel bearing assembly bu
t there is nothing no pictures of how it should look and how to put them in or
nothing. I found everything else I could ever want to know but nothing on wheel
bearings with a diagram. Does anyone have a picture or diagram that I can
follow so that I put these back together right. Also there are two ring clips
on both wheels where do they go . they look important I dont see anything
like that on the rear ? any information I would be gratefull Mark- Dick's advise is absolutely correct. I've had
two experiences simnialr to your is the past decade, one on a friend's 49
Plymouth- took us three weekends of heating , Rust buster, and hub pulling till
one moment- surprise- the drum popped! Persistence & mystery. the other was with Clark Thomas on a 62 LeBaron we
were preparing for transfer of caretaker. We discovered that the drum would
'stick' in one palce on rotation, and we worked after many days on the
spot it was 'free'- after reducing the shoe pressure against the drum to bare
minimum. What we found when the drum finally popped- was the linings had
detached from the shoes. Maybe your linings are riveted and not bonded-
but just wanted to mention that if the rivets popped- the 'loose brake lining'
could be contributing to your problem. I had that happen on an old Chevy when I
was a college kid-the linings were ruined by brake fluid- which 'cracked the
lining'- and the linings came 'off their rivets'. . Calif sounds great, but being on the east
coast--- Best wishes for a happy holiday- and success! Sherman -- Check out the new AOL.
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