Re: IML: AW: Remove/reinstall 1959-66 Great way to Clean your rubber sea
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Re: IML: AW: Remove/reinstall 1959-66 Great way to Clean your rubber seals!



I forgot to mention.  The  best way to clean original hard rubber is to throw it in a glass beading cabinet.  I know most people do not have access to one but I spent about 45 minutes on each seal and they came out as good as new.  A little soap and water afterwords and they are just like brand new. 
 
Now after my first debacle sandblasting would not touch the modern weatherstrip adhesive I had used.  That took hours sitting in the drive with screwdrivers/rags and half a can of 3M brand adhesive remover.  Anyway, glassbeading the rubber will take off dirt, rust deposits, and most old adhesive.  It really does create amazing results.  I've even used low pressure blasting to clean soft rubber as well.
 
Richard
'60 Crown

Luke Nola <luke@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi guys from down under in New Zealand! Just to let you know that I'm preforming this exact task right now on my '60 le Baron. After ordering the new seals front and rear from Andy Burnbum they are nothing rempotely like the origional so I don't really know what they are doing in the catalogue. I've since taken Kenyons advice and restored the origional rubbers. It's taken me a good two weeks of tedious cleaning with a screwdriver wrapped in a soft cloth getting right into the grooves. The are really complicated profiles but I know them like the back of my hand by now. Full of dirt and seal goo. I've been using thinners on the rubber to clean the goo off. Did a little test first and nothing has happened to the surface of the rubber, that was two weeks ago so I can safely say the thinners is safe. I'll be keen to hear other opinions though?
They look like new now so in the New Year I'll get a local expert in to help me install the glass. The factory seal has a sticky black greasy sealant. Don't know if I can find something the same today but I'll take their advice on it. 
Anyhow, nice to read that you are going through the same thing at the same time.

Luke Nola


On 22/12/2006, at 2:53 PM, john sadowski wrote:

I've had many of these installed over the past 36 or so years & don't recall the shop ever putting any sealant in the gasket. Anyone that is attempting to do this job themselves should make sure there is no debris in the gasket. Its at least a 2 person job, especially if you don't have the suction cups. Also, don't attempt on a cold day. The gasket won't be very pliable & you almost certainly will break the glass.
John
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 4:59 PM
Subject: RE: IML: AW: Remove/reinstall 1959-66 BEWARE!

Hi Folks,
 
Had to chime in on this one.  By all means remove your windshield yourself if you like.  Installation can be very tricky though.  I had to remove the windshield in my '60 Crown because of rust under the stainless steel roof inserts.  The car looked to have had a NOS windshield that was installed in the 1970's after the original was vandalized.  It was a mint windshield.  After following the manual instructions, applying sealant on everything, we were three inches from finished and the windshield cracked.  A reproduction costs $1000.  It took me three hours to get the adhesive off the weatherstrip.  The seal was also like new but has a couple cuts in it now from our tools.  When I thought back I did not remember much sealant on the rubbber, but then I did not take it out.  The ironic part is that I though my Father and I could do the job more carefully. 
 
I had a local place that does home installations come and do it and it was in 20 minutes later and perfect with no mess.  They said it was in such good shape no sealant was required.  The manual says you can add sealant around the edges but I went with what my local professionals said.  I am going to seal the back glass afterwords since those alway leak.  It cost me $250 for installation and I felt like an idiot after seeing these guys do it.  They had lubricants and very large suction cups and made it look easy.  If you are installing a used windshield go ahead and try it if you like.  I sure would not risk a high dollar piece of glass again myself. 
 
Richard Burgess
'60 Crown

JAY D'ANGELO <cadij@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Good information, this I will try, thank you all.

Jay D'Angelo





> From: stadtapoachern@xxxxxxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: IML: AW: Remove/reinstall 1959-66 (and other?) windscreens yourself. SOOO EASY.
> Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 20:10:28 +0100
>
> Here is a picture where and how to open and save the weather-strip
>
> http://www.movit.de/images/imprgl3.jpg
>
> Dietmar Frensemeyer
> 1960 fds
> -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] Im Auftrag von Kenyon Wills
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 21. Dezember 2006 16:27
> An: IML
> Betreff: IML: Remove/reinstall 1959-66 (and other?) windscreens yourself.
> SOOO EASY.
>
> Jay,
>
> I'd bet on what you have being great. Unless the car
> was outside in LV for 20 years. The stainless trim
> preserves the rubber very well here in Northern Ca.
> and most other places.
>
>
> The gasket on that car is a superior, ingenious design
> that leds itself to being reused. So much so that you
> can open it yourself with a butter knife and see.
>
> Feeling even the least bit adventurous? Follow
> along:
>
> Take the stainless trim off. Mostly screws and clips.
>
> Look on the A pillar section of the gasket for what
> appear to be tiny ribs or a seam.
>
> On any other rubber, this would be the mold seam, and
> your eye will tell you that it can't be anything but.
>
>
> Disregard what you think you see.
>
> On this thing, it's where two parts of rubber actually
> touch and are squeezed together.
>
> Gently dig/probe your butter knife into the seam and
> pry it apart. You will have the outside section fold
> out and back. Work all the way around the edge and
> get it open. It's not exactly a zip-loc bag device,
> but that's the closest analogy I can think of.
>
> When you have that lip up and out of the way, you have
> then opened a path to allow the inner lip to fold up
> 90 degrees, and somewhat under the outer lip so that
> it occupies the space formerly filled by the outer
> lip.
>
> You can do this with your fingers after a certain
> point, most likely, and the butter knife if not.
> Seriously, if you're under 95 years old and your hands
> work, you're in. Sneak the butter knife out the back
> door when she's not looking - better to get
> forgiveness on this one.
>
> Fold the inner gasket up and the edge of the glass
> will be visible all the way around. Put a moving
> blanket on the hood. Maybe remove the wipers? (cant
> remember).
>
> Sit in the car on the front seat with your butt on the
> front edge of the seat. Take your shoes off. Use
> your stocking feet to gently push (not kick!) the
> glass out all the way around. The thing will pop out,
> and if you screw up and crack it further, well, you're
> replacing it, so.....
>
> Rotate the glass on its bottom edge onto the moving
> blanket and carry away. I used a hammer to knock it
> down so that it would fit in the recycle can that we
> have, and the garbage man took it away and I didn't
> even fill up the regular can with it.
>
>
> This is something that you CAN do with 1-2 buddies.
>
> Glass installation was a black art to me until Jeff
> Ingraham showed me this. So stupidly easy!
>
>
>
> I can find a windscreen gasket if you need one, but
> I'm almost certain that what you have is re-workable.
> Please don't write back to say that the glass place
> used a blade on the rubber and that it's a goner!
> That would be a shame.
>
>
> You can get gasket sealing material with a casual
> search. Try the local glass co?
>
> Installing is pretty much the same thing - clean the
> channel with solvent, put in some sealant, fold down
> the inner lip. fold down the outer lip with your hand
> and use a rubber mallet to clench the thing shut, and
> you're done.
>
>
> -K
>
> --- JAY D'ANGELO <cadij@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > I've decied to replace the windshield on my
> > convertible. Got a great price today of $500 +$100
> > shipping to Las Vegas.Problem is, I can't find the
> > rubber windshield channel molding. Steele doesn't
> > have it and neither does the other sources I
> > contacted. My windshield dealer is also making
> > calls, but they can't find one either.Anyone have
> > any leads? I'm sure that the old one will fall
> > apart when it is removed - doesn't do any good to
> > get a windshield if I can't use it.HELP!Jay
> > D'Angelo64 Iml CvtLas Vegas
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
> > Get into the holiday spirit, chat with Santa on
> > Messenger.
> >
> http://imagine-windowslive.com/minisites/santabot/default.aspx?locale=en-us
>
>
> Kenyon Wills
>
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www.televisionspaceman.tv



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