IML: It may be ALIVE But I would Still Be Looking!

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

I still think that there is a dirty/loose connection or a corroded wire 
in there someplace.

I never am satisfied when something starts working again while I feel I 
haven't found the correct problem. That usually means that it will 
happen again, and usually when it is the most inconvenient. I carry a 
wire kit with alligator clips with me for those situations. On my '68, 
an occasional no start problem turned into a NEVER start problem 
suddenly one day out in the boonies. The small wire that goes from the 
relay directly to the starter apparently either broke inside the cloth 
conduit or is corroded. Once I bypassed it with a jumper. The car 
started just fine, and has ever since. On that car, I could hear the 
relay click, but nothing at the starter.

Same thing with the '60 LeBaron, only with that car it was the neutral 
safety switch. There was no click anyplace.

Like Chris says, that resistor is bypassed during cranking, so it 
shouldn't have caused a "nothing" situation when the key was turned. 
You should have at least been able to crank the engine. If you study 
the wiring diagram you may find something that tells us otherwise, but 
I just don't think so. I think you have experienced a weird 
coincidence. If you changed the resistor and the ignition switch and 
they were both bad, I suppose that problem could have been cured, but 
who knows.

If it was mine, I'd still be leery and looking for another problem. At 
least carry a wire kit w/some alligator clips. That might save you. On 
the cars that I drive regularly, I have gotten pretty good at knowing 
where things might happen, and how to get spark or juice to the starter 
when the proper avenues have failed. After getting a letter from AAA 
complaining that 26 tow jobs in one year was too many, I reminded them 
that the car was always towed to an AAA authorized facility, and NONE 
of them were able to find the true problem with my electronic ignition, 
even though the car ran fine when I picked it up (after paying a 
$200.00 repair bill each time). One day it wouldn't run for me at home, 
so I dug in. I found a corroded connector between the ignition module 
and the distributor. That was the second place I looked. The car has 
run flawlessly for the last five years. They're trained mechanics, and 
I am a commercial banker. Go figure.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 11:35 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...IT's ALIVE!

Hi Chris...and thanks for the reply. I don't understand what was going 
on (or
NOT going on) with the old ballast but when I turned the key I got 
NOTHING!
..the starter didn't even 'click' or 'whine' or anything! But....I'm 
VERY glad I
got it working again before replacing some expensive items while
troubleshooting!!!
Thanks again!!
Dan Melnik


---- Chris Strohmeyer <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

=============
I've had a little experience on the ballast. The ballast must have been
"open" or in other words burned in two. The ballast cuts the voltage to 
the
coil only while the car is RUNNING. When you turn the key to crank and
start the engine, the ballast is bypassed with a full 12 volts to the 
coil
to make the spark hotter for ease of starting, Once you let off the 
starter
the ballast resistor takes over supplying 8-10 volts to the coil and 
saves
your points from burning. So with the ballast not working the engine 
would
have tried to start but wouldn't because once you let go of the starter
there would be NO voltage going to the coil because of the faulty 
ballast
resistor.

Hope this helps,

Chris
67 Imperial Convertible


----- Original Message -----
From: <dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...IT's ALIVE!


> Hi All! Just wanted to thank everyone who offered their help and 
comments
> on this problem with my 66 LeBaron!!
> Well, I finally got it fixed!!!! I spent the afternoon crawling 
around
> under the dash (definitely NOT a fun experience for anyone over
> 6ft!...gonna have some sore muscles tomorrow!) looking for the 
connection
> that goes to the Ammeter....I was sure it was the gauge or the 
ignition
> switch!...... Ha!.......The ignition switch and lock-cylinder needed 
to be
> changed anyway as the key never did sit 'just right' in the cylinder 
from
> when I got the LeBaron. I now have one more key to carry around but 
thats
> OK ! Just before it started getting dark I was ready to throw in the 
towel
> for the day but decided to change one more thing, just since I had 
gotten
> a new one at the parts stroe and figured 'what the heck! Since i have 
it,
> I may as well put it in!'...so I changed the Ballast Resistor..... 
and the
> car started right up!!!! I have looked thru the wiring diagrams but 
still
> don't understand how this Ballast Resistor caused the condition I was
> experiencing.....!?
> Oh well, at least the car is running now. I still have to change the
> POSITIVE battery cable to the starter, but that needed to be changed
> (replaced) anyway....plus with all the messing around with that cable 
(on
> and off) the past few days, the end that goes on the battery terminal 
has
> gotten, shall we say, 'worse for wear'..! Anyway, thats a job for 
tomorrow
> or ..?? I do know that I will DEFINITELY keep a spare Ballast 
Resistor in
> the trunk from now on for each of my Imperials!!!....which, if I 
remember
> right, is something that several IMl members have strongly suggested
> anyway!!!!
> I do want to thank you all very much for your help! .....Hopefully, I 
can
> now move on to meeting with Dick Benjamin and having his friend 
(Rich) let
> me know what a good repaint of the LeBaron will set me back!!!
>
> I think I will be looking for a Ammeter Gauge!!! (its STILL showing 
in the
> CHARGE zone and apprears to be stuck...hope its just temporary!
>
> Thanks again!
> Dan Melnik.
>
>
> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
> Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm



----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm




----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and 
security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from 
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.



-----------------  http://www.imperialclub.com  -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please 
reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be 
shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm