IML: Speedo Cables

[sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I just found a catalog that has replacement speedo cables. I know there was some interest in this. They list cables from 51-83 Imperials. Pioneer Powertrain Products.Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx

At one time, Chrysler offered in the High Performance parts, an orange silicone type valve cover gasket. It was a Hi-Temp type, and reusable. I used them on our solid lifter race motors, as well as other B-RB engines.It worked better then any other gasket we tried . I'm looking for the PN. and will post it, if I can find it.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: randalpark@xxxxxxx

> I totally agree with this approach. It has worked well for me for over
> 35 years.
>
> Paul W.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fljoslin@xxxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 9:18 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars
>
> The method you describe is what I have used for valve covers,
> transmission pans and rear end covers.
>
> Clean both mating surfaces well and use a solvent (brake cleaner) as
> the final step. Attach the gasket to the "non car" surface using a good
> silicone sealer. Do not use any sealer on the "car" surface. Attach the
> cover and torque down. I usually use a 1/4" drive socket for these type
> of torque applications and go arou nd about ten times at 1/4 turn each
> until it feels good. The small ratchet reduces the amount of torque
> that you can apply. I know this is not very "scientific" but I have
> changed a few trans, rear end and valve covers like this and never had
> one leak. A good trick to remove any goop from the mating surfaces is
> to use a wire brush. You need to be very careful if it is on the "car
> side" so that you don't get anything into delicate areas. However, if
> you have the valve cover, trans pan, rear end cover off, a wire brush
> in a drill will make very quick work of any junk and not damage
> anything. Just make sure you clean it well afterwards. If you do follow
> the process of not applying any sealer to the car side of the gasket,
> there should be nothing on the other surface to remove anyway.
>
> I have seen many shops going to the no gasket, silicone sealer only
> approach. I am not really sure why. I have seen these fail (leak) and
> it makes it a real B***H to remove. Not only is the cover stuck on such
> that you risk warping it to remove it, but the bolts can get all gummed
> up and very difficult to remove and you have goo all over the car side
> of the surfaces which is tough to remove.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars
> Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 10:41:21 -0500
>
>
> I find that it works best to glue them (good
> quality rubber ones) in place in the valve
> cover, before installing the valve cover on the
> head. Occasionally, I have to tighten the bolts
> a little bit, but I haven't had any other
> problems. I have used this method several
> times. I also find it easier to deal with
> cleaning the valve co v er rather than having the
> scrape the head. Although the surface must be
> cleaned, the less work I have to do on the
> head, hanging over the fender, the easier it is
> on my back.
>
> Paul W.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mr85000@xxxxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 8:42 PM
> Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars
>
> Have you tried to get rubber cover gaskets? I purchased some in
> 1980 for my 1972 Custom Suburban S/W with a 400 in it.
>
> I am going to see if I can get some for my 75's 440. RockAuto has
> them FEL-PRO Part # VS50145R Rubber coated fiber gaskets $14.40
>
>
> Ã?â? yn & Patrick
>
> --- Brad Weikert wrote:
>
> >
> > On Feb 12, 2007, at 6:30 PM, Kenyon Wills wrote:
> >
> > > Aside from a valve cover that refuses to s ea l despite
> > > four tries...
> >
> > If you haven't tried it already you might want to try a Fel-Pro
> > blue
> > stripe cork gasket and install it with NO sealant. That's how
> > I
> > finally stopped the valve covers from leaking on my '73 440.
> > As the
> > oil soaks into the cork the cork will expand and (hopefully)
> > seal the
> > leaks.
> >
> > Brad
> >
>
>
>
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>
> Fred Joslin
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