Re: IML: electrical question. I hate electrical.

[sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Kenyon, if you have the remote mounted ignition switch (at the bottom of the steering column) it's quite possible thats your problem. Since many high current accessories  feed off the ignition switch, in particular the A/C, the switch may be melted internally, causing your problem. I've replaced several switches,in different vehicles that did similar things.After 2 switches in my 78 NYB, I installed a slave relay just for the A/C circuit.No more switches for 12 yrs.It seems like a good place to start. Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.

 

> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx> 
>
> > 72 coupe ran and drove fine. 
> > 
> > Parked for 2 weeks. Now no start. 
> > 
> > 
> > When key is turned, the SIGNAL SENTRY light lights up, 
> > which is normal, as there is no oil pressure to trip 
> > the switch that turns it off. 
> > 
> > Turning the key further to just before starter relay 
> > contact illuminates the BRAKE SYSTEM light, which may 
> > be part of the diagnostic test of the bulb, or more 
> > likely is because the booster is fried and has been. 
> > 
> > I've put about 10 miles on the car with the BRAKE 
> > SYSTEM light illuminated, and there is a new booster 
> > and complete brake system awaiting the car in the 
> > garage, so that is a known problem - should not be 
> > related to t
> he no-start problem. 
> > 
> > Anyway, when the key is just a hair away from tripping 
> > the starter relay, I get both lights that start solid 
> > and then start to flicker agressivley before slowing 
> > down and winking out. Both lights flicker on and off 
> > with increasing frequency, and the entire fuse block 
> > seems to be getting rapidly interrupted power, with 
> > clicking as the relays are energized and then shorted 
> > of power. 
> > 
> > The wiring diagram shows that the relay making the 
> > most noise at the fuse block is the power window relay 
> > switch, and disconnecting it stops the flickering 
> > current noise that is very audible in it, but I think 
> > that is a symptom and not the problem, as the lights 
> > continue to flicker on and off. 
> > 
> > The symptom indicates to me that the ignition circuit 
> > is flickering on/off, tending to off after starter 
> > relay is co
> nnected and it heats up. I got a cough or 
> > two out of the engine that coincided with the lamps 
> > being illuminated in that second, but the thing is 
> > dead otherwise. New engine, battery, etc. under the 
> > hood. 
> > 
> > Ignition switch? 
> > 
> > Shorting the relay with the key in RUN does not start 
> > the engine either, although it does turn over, 
> > obviously. 
> > 
> > I cleaned out the bulkhead connectors during engine 
> > swap - do not suspect a corroded connection, and since 
> > I've not touched wiring since driving it, do not 
> > suspect a loose connection there. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Thoughts? 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Kenyon Wills 
> > 
> > 
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