Re: IML: 1961 chrysler rear brakes

[SpicemanII@xxxxxxx]

Also, if you do not have a heavy duty hub-drum puller, there is a way to loosen the hub-drum. I do not like doing it, but, it will work. 
   Since you have run out of ways to get it off, reinstall the nut on the axle. Snug it to the hub-drum. Now, back it off 1 full turn. If you have a driveway, run the car at idle and drive it back and forward a couple times. Do not hit the gas hard as it is not necessary. You do not want to spin the keyway on the axle. What you will be trying to do is loosen the hub from the tapered axle. Now, jack up the car and install a jack stand under the frame. Set the car on the jack stand. With the tire off the ground, but still mounted on the drum and lug nuts still tight, try to wiggle the tire-wheel-hub-drum assembly and note if there is any feel of movement seperate of the axle. If so, you have the hard part done. If not, do it again since a strong puller is not available to you. I have a Mac Tools puller and I purchased the 2 extra legs so that I have 5 pulling, not just 3 as the tool comes with initially. 5 legs means if a leg breaks, I still have 4 till they can send me another. If you have 3, one breaks, you are done till it is replaced. 
   Side note for those of you that did not know, the front drums and the rear drums are the same for the 12x2 1/2 inch drums of all Imperials. When you press out the wheel studs from the hub-drum, they will interchange front to rear, but remember, not the hub, just the drum. So, if you have 1 or 2 spare rear hub-drums, and need a front drum, press out the studs and you can use the drums after pressing new studs into the drum with a front hub, they can now be used as fronts. 
   I know this seems long and drawn out, but I like to make it fully understood and simpleton as possible so there is full understanding of the seriousness of pulling a rear drum. OK ya'll? Joe Machado


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