Re: IML: 1964 Heat Control Valve, also check cable & clamps

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

You should be able to view the operation of the valve by moving the 
lever if you remove the glove compartment. If the valve isn't closing 
all the way, the cable needs to be adjusted. The leak I mentioned would 
be an external water leak, and very obvious, espeically when the valve 
is closed and has water pressure against it.

Paul W..

-----Original Message-----
From: R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 8 May 2007 5:36 AM
Subject: Re: IML: 1964 Heat  Control Valve, also check cable & clamps

Hi Paul, 
 
I have the same problem with my 60, I can't complete shut off the 
heater :) 
In cold weather this is nice, but now with the temperature rising it is 
getting pretty hot... 
I guess I have to look at valve end then? 
 
Or are the 1960 heater valves prone to failure over the years (internal 
leak) ? 
 
Thanks, 
 
Robert 
----- Original Message ----- From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx> 
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 2:16 PM 
Subject: IML: 1964 Heat Control Valve, also check cable & clamps 
 
> Check this thoroughly first. It sounds like you are getting heat and 
can't > turn it off. That is usually a control cable problem, not the 
valve > itself. This is most common on '64 through '66 models at the 
lever end. > and '60 through '66 at the valve end. 
>  
> The control cable has clamps at each end, and is adjustable. 
Frequently, > the cable slips at one end, or the clamps fall off 
causing it to have no > effect on opening or closing the valve. When it 
fails, the valve usually > leaks, which it may very well do once you 
get it turned off. 
>  
> The cable also can break off at one end having the same result. You 
really > can't tell unless you look into it further. I believe that on 
your car, > you can view the operation of the valve by moving the lever 
if you remove > the glove compartment. Then you can shine a light in 
there and see what > the valve does when you move the lever. If the 
valve doesn't move, it will > also allow you to determine of the 
problem is at the valve end or the > lever end. Trouble with my '65 has 
been at the lever end. That is more > difficult to work on since there 
is more stuff over there, but it can be > done, carefully. 
>  
> If that turns out to be the trouble, you can become creative and 
replace > the spring clip type clamps with something more substantial. 
I have seen > combinations of filed off washers, screws, lock nuts, and 
lock washers > that were very effective. These days, even a strong 
cable tie might help > keep the original style spring clamp firmly in 
place. 
>  
> Paul W. 
>  
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: zatoichi1964@xxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> Sent: Tue, 8 May 2007 3:33 AM 
> Subject: IML: heat control valve 
>  
> i need a heat control valve fo a 64 crown 4dr. i am trying to get the 
air > conditioning going but gotta stop the heat first. 
>  
> james carter 
>  
>  
>  
> > test 
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