I wonder if Chrysler had a tool like this. I bet they did.
----- Original Message -----
From: wardle65@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge - Tools
Date: Wed, 16 May 2007 19:05:21 +1000
You don't have to spend a fortune on a hub
puller. I went shopping for one a while back
and was very dissatisfied with what I saw so I
set out to make one. I used 1/2 inch steel
plate and marked out the stud pattern so it
would bolt across ALL THE STUDS using my wheel
nuts. I cut another hole in the middle of that
then had my mate weld a small tower (to clear
the raised hub section) with a nut on the
inside and a 3/4 inch threaded rod thru that
with a pointed end (into spindle) and a welded
nut on the other end so you can crank it with a
large shifter.
Let me tell you it works a treat and cost me
$20 in material and my mates time cut it and
weld it up.
Chris Wardle
58 Imp Crown Coupe
----- Original Message ----- From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge - Tools
> This point, along with safety, can not be
> over emphasized with respect to this job. The
> highest quality heavy duty puller makes the
> difference between success and failure in
> doing this job.
>
> If you own a tapered rear axle car (pre-1965)
> and plan to keep it, buying one of these will
> never be a mistake. If you don't use it, the
> person who ends up fixing your car will.
>
> Paul W.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: imperialken@xxxxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tue, 15 May 2007 2:58 PM
> Subject: RE: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge - Tools
>
> I've been reading as different members describe horrors related to various
> repairs of there Imperials. And while I applaud anyone who can save a few
> bucks during the process, my experience has taught me that "tools" is not
> the place to cut corners. The MAC puller referenced below is a quality
> tool. (and it's not cheap) Sure you can get the same tool at Harbor Freight
> for a fraction of the cost. But it WILL NOT do the same job. I have seen
> people spend many a frustrating hour trying to accomplish something with
> inferior tools, only to fail. I'll walk up with Snap-On, Mac or good
> Craftsman tools and perform the same task in seconds. To me the better
> tools are worth it.
>
> Just my .02
>
> Ken
> 67 Crown 4 Dr Ht
> 68 LeBaron 4 Dr Ht
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Kenyon Wills
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:10 AM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge
>
>
> --- spicemanii@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
>> The hub puller I have is from Mac Tools. I bought
>> the extra legs, so it has 5 and not 3.
>
> The part # for the
>> puller: PP827B. The 2 more legs that you also want
>> are #PP827B-2. The assembly was $145.99 and the 2
>> extra legs were $99.10. They paid shipping. Joe
>> Machado
>>
>
> Joe is right on with that information. If the MAC
> tool fails to pull your drum off, especially with a
> good pneumatic impact wrench driving it (manual stuff
> is for the birds in my book), your junk just isn't
> coming apart and you might want to pass and move
> forward to a replacement axle or cut your drum off.
>
> I have plenty of grease on the tool's threads and on
> the face where it meets and spins on the axle spindle
> too, so that my twisting force is retarded as little
> as possible by friction where there's metal twisting
> on metal.
>
> I pulled a pair of 1960 Fury (tapered) drums (that I'd
> never pulled off before) yesterday with this
> discussion in mind as I did it.
>
> once the tool was set up and snug, each drum took less
> than 15 seconds of pneumatic impact wrench pressure to
> pop, and that's about normal per my experience.
>
> I keep expecting to get a "stubborn" drum that matches
> the tightness of the drums that so many others seem to
> have, but it just hasn't happened on the 10+ axles
> I've done...
>
>
>
> Kenyon Wills
>
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