Re: IML: Rust solutions

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

--- Doug Norton <e.norton@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Patricia asked for a reply off-line; however, I am a
> new club member awaiting delivery of my 1964 Crown
> Coupe, which has a small amount of rust.  I would
> appreciate either an on-line response to her
> question or being included in the reply to her.  
>    
>   Many thanks.  This is a GREAT club.  The on-line
> information is awesome.
>    
>   Doug Norton
>   Dallas, TX
> 


Depends on where the rust is and whether it is surface
or cancerous.  

Cancer usually gets cut or ground out and replaced
with a welded replacement, then ground flat and skim
coated with body filler.

If the part comes off, removal for sandblasting or
blasting with something else is one step.  You'd need
a blaster or cabinet for that.  Aluminum Oxide is
great in a cabinet for fine machined parts, play sand
for the blaster on coarser parts like wheels and
suspension parts.

Another is to totally immerse the rusted part in
vinegar for 24 hours, followed by scrubbing with an
SOS pad under the hose, followed by repeated cycles
till the metal is virgin looking again.  

Do not let sit for longer than 24 hours without
scrubbing is my experience.  Leave outside regarding
smell - I used a big tub the size of a large cooler
and got a strange look at the checkout stand when I
bought out the store on vinegar.  Try this on a rusted
bolt in a cup first, you'll be amazed.


If on the car, use a wire wheel that is sized
according to the offending area (down to a dremel
tool).

Treat with SEM Rust Seal to convert the rust, fill
with skim coat of body filler, sand smooth and repaint
with an airbrush.  The auto paint supply shop can
shoot your paint with a spectrometer and mix something
to be an "exact" (close, I say) match.

Be certain to address the other side of the metal if
it's on the bottom of a door or rocker panel or
whatever or it'll just return again.

POR15 is another option that plenty of others like.  I
didn't like it as well - too hard to mix and apply,
but maybe I had a bad day.  

Eastwood suppies RUST ENCAPSULATOR.  I sprayed that on
top of the SEM RUST SEAL on my 196o body that was
surface rusted and it's still going fine after 3+
years sitting in the carport without having been
sealed by paint (I've been so bad about getting back
to that car)...

Photos of what I did - pay attention to the drums and
the body work:

http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1960/Kenyon/Page01.htm

Also use ARCHIVE SEARCH on the club website to look up
Kerry Pinkerton's Restoration Saga(s) - he did about
4-5 of them and they are incredibly well written
stories that will inspire you to try doing it
yourself.


A better phrased question that says where your rust is
might generate a more precise set of replies, but the
SEM Rust Seal is one helluva product.  RUST MORT is a
relative of it that works almost as well, but the SEAL
is the best says me.


Planning what you'll do to paint/seal the part is also
important.  Check out Eastwood's Chassis Black for
components, or at the least semi-gloss spray paint.


-Kenyon



Kenyon Wills
 
 























 
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