Re: IML: Removing/Replacing A-arm Bushings
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Re: IML: Removing/Replacing A-arm Bushings



Thanks a lot for your very informative answer!
It is really a great help if or when I have to remove/replace those lower control arm bushings!

But I still have hope left that it will only be a matter of adjusting the bolts at the anchor of the T-bar!

Unfortunately I wasn't able to check today due to bad weather.
Hopefully it will be dry tomorrow, so I can jack up the car and put it on axle stands.

Btw, I have studied the 60 FSM thoroughly today, and now I know that I don't have to worry about he anchors. They are only holding the T-bars in position and have no thread that can be damaged or stripped by old rusted adjusting bolts.

I might only be in for new bolts and swivels!

Thanks again,

Robert
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Strickland" <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Imperial Mail List" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 2:26 PM
Subject: IML: Removing/Replacing A-arm Bushings


I was able to buy the exact busing remove/install tools (C-3710 or C-3669 with adapter SP-3233A) from Miller Special Tools Co. years ago. They are still in business and will sell directly to the end user/restorer etc. The tools they supply are made of hardened steel and are much better to use than steel flat washers. Flat washers are normally rather soft steel and will change shape when exposed to the forces required to remove and install the bushings in an Imperial. The tools mentioned in the service manual are used on a good number of year models of Imperials and also Dodge vans and trucks.

A note on removing the A-arm bolts: Be sure to watch the ends of the bolts! If you turn the wrong end of the bolt you may damage the front end adjustment arrangement. The end of the bolt which has the hex head has an eccentric washer (called a cam in the service manual) welded to the bolt head. The shaft of the bolt has a flat side and on the end with the free nut there is another eccentric washer which has a flat side that fits against a flat side of the bolt shaft. Care must be exercised to make sure that you do not allow the bolt head to turn while removing the free nut on the far end! If the bolt head is allowed to turn too much it will damage the dished in adjustment washer that is welded to the A-arm frame extension.

The dished in washer welded to the frame in combination with the eccentric washers on the A-arm bolt is what provides the ability to adjust camber. It provides a fixed center point that the adjustment bolt/cam can push against when a front end alignment is done.

If you are having a mechanic do the work, be sure he understands the special construction of the bolts and cam washers and their purpose so that he won't damage your car's frame.

Joe S.


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