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I'm not sure what a hub puller with pry bars is so
let me just say you need a more substantial hub puller. The one I use has
three legs that you attach to the lugs with the wheels own bolts. There is
a central piece that attaches to the thick screw that rests against the center
of the wheel, with strike surfaces at each end. A regular hammer will do
nothing to loosen the hub. A small sledge hammer is needed at the very
least. I have access to a heavy, square headed, small railroad spike
hammer and it does the trick first time, every time. The required hub puller
pulls the hub off by pressing at the center while simultaneously applying
opposite pressure to the lugs.
Don't bother with the pot metal type available from
the likes of J.C. Whitney, that costs around $30.00. It will literally
shatter from all the forces being applied through it on a hub as substantial as
an Imperial. You need something made of cast iron or steel at the very
least. This is a toll worth investing in. Your need for it while you
own the car will never go away.
The pistons are held on the back of the plate by
two nuts. There are also smaller shoe adjustment nuts you will need to
avoid. Oh, removing the springs on the cylinders is child's play compared
with putting them back. I suggest taking a picture of the set up once you
have the hub off but before you start dismantling anything. You'll be glad
you did. The FSM is quite good in this area but if you lose track of what you
actually find on your car you may have difficulty in finding your way
back.
Oh, I should mention, bleeding the system
once you put it all back together can be the worst part of the whole
project.
Hugh
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