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Hi Dave,
I know these gadgets, and I like them!
But I always thought that these tools are way too
expensive for the shade tree mechanic?
But since you can also use them to check the steaks
on the BBQ it might be a wise investment LOL
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 3:33
PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 Temperature
Gauge
One tool the driveway work shop should not be without, is an infrared
temp sensor. You can shoot the T-Stat housing, or return hose, or radiator top
and get a quick assessment of coolant temp. Add a few degrees, and check to
see if you're in range. A mechanical type also is helpful. The infrared is
also good to check the steaks on the bar-be as well. Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: PAUL WENTINK
<randalpark@xxxxxxx>
> The gauges on these cars (1960
through 1963) were never very accurate.
> Adding to this problem,
over the years voltage regulator failures have
> often overheated
them. The regulators are notorious for burning out and
> pegging the
gauges. Usually, they can be saved if the car is
> immediately shut
down, but this can happen anyplace, and disconnecting
> the gauges on
the fly isn't a simple job. Most of them are just run
> until they
get too hot or burn out completely.
>
> The cooling systems on
our cars is able to handle just about anything,
> as long as it is
properly maintained and in good condition. I am okay
> watching
functional gauges for readings that are out of the ordinary.
> The
temperature and oil pre ssure gauges on most of my '60 through '63
>
Imperials read low, possibly due to what was explained previously. I
> checked the actual temperature and oil pressure by having the cars
> tested at the shop under normal operating conditions.
>
> If I see the temperature gauge move high, or in the case of oil
> pressure, low I shut it down and check for a problem. This occurred
on
> my '62 once after exiting a freeway. The temperature gauge
suddenly
> began to climb. Pulling over and checking things, I found
a broken
> belt. The car did not reach boiling, and I was able to
change the belt
> and resume my trip without trouble or having
damaged the engine.
>
> I think that the key here is to get to
know your car, and then watch
> and listen for change. That is
usually the first sign of trouble. J.C.
> Auto can rebuild and
recalibrate the gauges on these cars if you want
> them to read
properly. Their contact information is on the OIC we site.
> They do
an excellent job.
>
> Paul W.
>
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: sjak brak
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
Sent: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 2:17 am
> Subject: IML: 1960 temperature
gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
>
>
>
>
In my experience from the speedshop, the original Mopar gauges can
>
often get very inaccurate over the years. This can have various causes.
>
> Â
>
> The only way to correctly check the
temperature is to install a
> calibrated gauge and sending unit. This
will not affect the originality
> of the car, since you can remove it
after comparing the readings from
> the calibrated unit with the one
on your dash.
>
>
> Â
>
> On 10/23/07,
Rob van der Es wrote:
>
>
>
Thanks for sharing this Richard!,
>
> Â
>
> Your
father is absolutely right, you need to adjust the cam adjusters
> (4
in the front and 2 in the rear) frequently to get a good working
>
braking system.
>
> I have adjusted the way you father
described it, and I must say I have
> a firm pedal that travel only
halfway to the floor!
>
> Â
>
> Maybe the other
60 owners, Paul, Tom, Kenyon and Charles can jump in on
> this and
tell us how much pedal travel they have?
>
> Â
>
> And since we are talking about 1960 Imps here, what is the correct
> reading for the temperature of our cars?
>
> Since
the weather is almost freezing cold here, my car doesn't reach
>
normal operating temperature. It just passed the Cold mark on the dial
> and thats about it. Since it is a Californian car I thought the
former
> owner might have installed another termostat that opens
earlier, so I
> checked it and I was right!
>
> Â
>
> The previous owner installed a 160 degrees thermostat!, I
guess to
> prevent the car from overheating in hot Californian
summers.
>
> I now have installed a 180 degrees thermostat
(OEM standard
> temperature) and the needle on the gauge goes higher
then ever before!
> It now stays exactly in the middle of the dial.
>
> Is this correct?
>
> I have never seen the
needle climbed that high before, so I am a little
> worried allthough
common sense tells me that the middle of the dial
> sounds quite
good...
>
> Â
>
> Just curious to know the
readings on other 1960 owners temperature
> gauges!
>
>
Â
>
> Thanks,
>
> Â
>
> Robert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
From: richard burgess
>
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ;
Kenyon Wills ; Larry Blomburg
>
> Sent: Monday, October 22,
2007 2:47 PM
>
> Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
>
>
> Â
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Â
>
> After spending countless hours working on the
brakes on my '60 Crown
> they are finally working properly. I think
we bled them entirely three
> times before getting everything
repaired properly. The shop that
> "restored" my chasis did not
double flare the brake lines correctly and
> had overtightened the
flares at the bronze blocks creating distortion
> and leaks. We
ended up replacing all of the lines again and the blocks
> as well,
at the front frame and on top of the axle. The IML web site
> was
helpful but did not really address the issue of pedal going to the
>
floor. S ee below. Another tip, we elevated our brake bleeding bottle
> on a small step ladder, that really helped keeep the air from
returning
> to the cylinders during the bleeding process. After all
of this my
> father had this to say:
>
> Â
>
>
>
> For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes",
"Brake Bleeding".
>
> Â
>
> The 1960 Imperial
and like years brake systems can be perfectly bled
> and the pedal
still go to the floor if the brake shoes are not adjusted
> to
require minimal movement to brake the drum. The bottom line is
>
that with six cylinders to provide fluid too, the master cylinder will
> be at the end of its stroke (to the floor) before the wheel
cylinders
> have enough fluid (pressure) to push the shoes tight
against the
> drums. Chrysler knew this, as in the Maintenance
Manual under "Pedal
> goes to Floor" you (a) check fluid in master
cylinder and (b) adjust
> for worn linings . The obvious implication
is that it does not take
> much slack at the brake shoes to allow the
pedal to go to the floor.Â
> With the shoes properly adjusted tight
against the drum and just
> loosened enough to allow the wheel to
turn freely you still will not
> have a firm pedal until you almost
reach the floor. That's just the
> way it is. If you want to see
this then tighten all the shoes against
> the drums and then see how
much pedal you have. You cannot see this by
> pumping the pedal as
the strong shoe return springs will push the fluid
> back out of the
wheel cylinders faster than you can stroke the master
> cylinder.Â
Adjust the shoes properly and frequently and you can get
> good
braking.  Â
>
> Â
>
> Richard Burgess
>
> '60 Crown
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
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