RE: IML: Oil usage theories

[sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx]

 The valve seal replacement procedure that uses air pressure in the cylinder, is the best because you don't re- index the valve in a different worn spot on the seat. As long as your compression test is in or near spec, seal replacement is an option. It can still buy time if you're not ready for major work. If you think the process may be at hand, simply remove the valve covers, (which probably leak) and look between the spring coils at the seal. Most of the time, they're gone or split, and rock hard. Since big blocks pump a lot of oil to the valve train to lube, and cool the valves, springs, and rocker arms, everything is swimming in oil. I even put the small Chevy oring seal on the stem before the umbrella seal, when I do an on engine job. It's just something to think about, if you're so inclined. Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.

 

> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: "Michael O. Mann" <mann340s@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
>
> > Burt, 
> > 
> > I had to replace the seals on an 89 Suburban a few years ago, and found a 
> > brass fitting that I could use in the spark plug hole to pressurize the 
> > cylinder. 
> > 
> > PLEASE NOTE: It also can push the piston low enough in the cylinder that 
> > when pressure is released, the valve can drop through. That's never good. 
> > 
> > I spent some time considering all the worry with clearance between piston 
> > and valve at TDC when things go wrong. If the valve is within a mm or so of 
> > the piston, where can it go? So I used a special tool (number 2 lead, 
> > eraser end down) to ensure I had close to top dead center, and quit worrying 
> > about the valves getting away. For me it was much easier than tryi
> ng to 
> > keep the engine pressurized. I had no problems with remaining seals. 
> > 
> > The valve spring compressor is one of the most underpriced tools available. 
> > Buy or rent a good one if you do the seals. 
> > 
> > Good luck. 
> > 
> > Michael 
> > 
> > 
> > ___________________________________________ 
> > I need to replace the valve seals on my 1968 Dodge Charger (383 "B" engine) 
> > but I haven't had the nerve to try either technique. Have any of the 
> > Imperial Club members had success with these techniques - or any other 
> > tricks that I don't know about.? 
> > 
> > 
> > 
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