Re: IML: Rumbling driveline vibration

[aeyn <mr85000@xxxxxxxxx>]

This may also be a LONG shot, but on the Chrysler front wheel
drives, IF the struts are bad and the engine mounts have been
replaced WITH the CORRECT ones the verticle positioning of the
struts can change to the point where you WILL VERY MUCH notice
BAD struts and BAD lower ball joints.  The struts have a ball
bearing pivot in the top mounting bearing/plate that DOES go VERY
BAD and it takes more than the normal beating when the "strut
pistons" are wore out.  This can cause VERY HARD steering and a
lot of rumbling noise.  IF you have a Clicking/tapping/knocking
noise when turning in either direction then the CV joints can
also be bad.  IF the car has more than 100K miles on it = REBUILD
the ENTIRE front suspension (Cheaper and much more pleasant that
way).  This is only a simplified description.  Belive me, I have
been through this and it is easier to do a complete rebuild from
engine mounts to half shafts to rack to struts and ball joints. 
Most of the work otherwise envolves one of these parts to get to
others of these parts to replace them.  I had to do this to my 90
Fifth Avenue (3.3) and I now need to do this to our 93 Imperial
(3.8L) (135,ooo miles) and 92 Grand Voyager SE (3.3L) (133,000
miles). The 3.3 and 3.8 engine are very reliable and I look at
them like the Slant6 for the front wheel drive vehicles, AND they
also get very descent mileage.

IMPORTANT to ALL FRONT DRIVE CHRYSLER PRODUCTS OWNERS - whether
you do the STRUT rebuild yourself, have someone do it for you, or
purchase a comlete strut assembly, MAKE SURE TO HAVE THE THICK
ISOLATOR PADS AT THE TOP AND THE BOTTOM OF THE SPRINGS.  IT will
make a WORLD if difference in the ride and ESPECIALLY in the road
noise being transferred into the engine compartment.  AS PAUL
said previously, the engine compartment can be like a LARGE DRUM
and amplifies the noise.  I did not know at the time BUT I paid
to have my front struts in my 90 Fifth Avenue replaced just
before I left Las Vegas and trucked it to Portland, OR, just to
find out that the old worn isolator pads had been USED in the
struts and the sound was EXTREMELY unpleasant. I sold the car
less than 2 years later.

Æyn & Patrick
1975 LeBaron
1997 Chrysler Town & Country LXI
1993 Imperial Sedan
1992 Grand Voyager SE
(used to have: 1990 Fifth Avenue, 1986 Dodge B250, 1985 Chrysler
New Yorker, 1972 Duster, 1972 Fury Custom Suburban S/W, 1969
LeBaron)
Do you think we like Mopar?

--- PAUL WENTINK <randalpark@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> I don't own a '93, but engine mounts are suppose to isolate the
> engine, 
> transmission, and drive line from the rest of the car. If the
> wrong 
> mounts are used, there can be a direct connection, or
> "grounding" of 
> the engine to the frame or sub-frame. If this should occur, the
> car 
> becomes like the inside of a drum, and any sound or vibration
> is 
> magnified.
> 
> Broken mounts typically disconnect the engine completely from
> the car, 
> so it is possible for a noticeable increase in noise or
> vibration to 
> occur once replaced, but the correct mounts should not do this
> to the 
> extent you describe, especially in automobiles that are noted
> for 
> silence and smoothness of operation. If this continues after
> the next 
> set of mounts are installed, there may be other problems with
> the car, 
> such as rough engine, bad c.v. joints, or u-joints which may
> have been 
> masked by the broken mounts. It may be possible that the
> position of 
> the exhaust system will change with the new mounts, causing it
> to 
> "ground" against a portion of the car which should be isolated
> from it. 
> This would also result in a noise and vibration condition.
> 
> Noises and vibration can have many different causes, so you may
> want to 
> refer to the FSM for your car to see if there is a specific 
> troubleshooting section or service diagnosis for this problem.
> 
> Paul W.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: NY3UVL714@xxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 9:59 am
> Subject: IML: Rumbling driveline vibration
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Imperialists,
> 
>  
> 
> I've got three questions for the group.
> 
>  
> 
> 1.
> 
> my mechanic recently replaced 3 motor mounts to correct some on
> 
> throttle/off throttle driveline lash in my midnight blue - 1993
> sedan. 
> After the new mounts were installed there was a noticeable 
> increase in 
> engine
> 
> noise, vibration and harshness. Through the steering wheel I
> felt 
> strong buzzing vibrations and could hear the engine working
> under 
> throttle with a deep resonant sound.   My Imperial sounded and
> felt 
> like an older panel/pickup truck.  My mechanic reinstalled the
> old 
> mounts and has ordered a different type.  
> 
> What went wrong?
> 
>  
> 
> 2.
> 
> My car is a 1993 Imperial that came from the factory with a
> plain metal 
> chrome pentastar hood ornament without the crystalline eagle
> insert, no 
> anti-lock brakes and a 3.3 V-6  instead of the 3.8 
> 
> I wasn't aware of Imperials equipped this way, none of my
> literature 
> mentions this equipment level.
> 
> Please tell me more about my car.
> 
>  
> 
> 3. How do I change my email address on the mailing list?
> 
>  
> 
> Big thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> Lawrence from San Francisco
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new
> year.
> 
> 
>
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