Glenn,
At the description of your symptoms, I was initially thinking it might be
your fuel pump. But since you have narrowed it down to ignition, it sounds
to me like the points rubbing block has worn down to the condition where the
points do not open adequately to reliably allow the ignition coil field to
collapse and generate healthy a spark. Or the points could be so badly
pitted that they will not flow enough current to adequately charge the coil.
Try cleaning the points with an ignition point file, adjusting the points to
the proper gap, and checking the dwell.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
-----Original Message-----
From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List
[mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of John Compton
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 11:36 PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [FWDLK] Starting trouble (bad distributor?)
Hi
My son's 55 DeSoto had starting problems after we rebuilt the engine. After
relearning how the ignition circuit works and making his work, I would
recommend the following;
a) Pull the distributor so you can perform an inspection
b) Verify the distributor ignition lead is not grounded at the case or
inside the distributor
c) Verify that the flexible ingition wire inside is not frayed.
d) Inspect the points for burning/pitting, replace/adjust as required.
e) Inspect the flexible ground wire from the breaker plate to case.
Replace if frayed.
f) Check the shaft for wobble and up/down play.
g) The distributor case grounds to the engine at the machined surface.
Ensure the path is not painted over. Wouldn't hurt to make sure the engine
ground lead is still there and in good shape.
h) Inspect the cap/rotor. Make sure the carbon center lead moves up/down
on its spring. Inspect for cracks and burnt connections.
i) FINAL TEST - Take the distributor to a speed shop and ask them to spin
it up. They will test dwell and MOST IMPORTANT, the advance curve. (took me
forever to fault isolate a bad advance spring, the timing jumped all over
the place).
j) Then when you are good and tired, have someone build you an A block
electronic distributor. It really works better and with less maintenance
hastle. Then sell your old distributor on Ebay.
Hope this helps. I'm sure I missed something.
John L. Compton
Fullerton, CA
Desotojohn@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Desotojohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [FWDLK] 56 plymouth starting trouble
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:21:00 -0500
my plymouth belvedere has had some starting problems as of late, that I
assumed were related to the changed carburator of about 6 weeks ago. the car
would start up fine from a cold start, but after driving it for a while,
stopping it, it would not. I could hold the key hearing the engine turn over
until finally, sometimes 30 seconds or so, the car would spring to life. I
thought, perhaps a carburator issue?
then a few days ago, the car began sputtering, even at high speeds (not
jerking, but I could tell the engine was not running smooth) and it seemed
to me it was a fuel delivery problem, and I again thought the carburator.
but I don't know much about cars. it would even stall after driving on the
highway for an hour, once I came to a stop at an intersection or what have
you. then the final blow came after three days of irregular engine running,
the car stalled for the final time, and would not come back to life. the
engine turns over, but the car won't start. in the days prior it was
stalling, to such an extent that I put it in neutral to keep from konking
out at stop lights.
so, following my suspicion, I swapped back to the previous carburator to no
avail (this old one was removed for no other reason than me having a brand
new one to try out). we swapped the coil and ballast resistor (basically
brand new ones my friend was using in his 56 dodge) and still the engine
would not turn over.
we then tried to see if there was any sort of spark, by pulling the cable
from a spark plug and seeing if that would spark. nothing, or very little at
times. then, we tried removing the main wire from the center of the
distributor cap that is connected to the coil to see if that was sparking at
all, and that was very little or nothing at all. (on the 56 dodge these
tests produced spark showers) so, my friend was thinking that it was an
electrical problem, and that we should go directly from the 12 volt battery
to the ballast resistor (to bypass any potential wiring issues) to see if we
could get a spark when I tried to start the car, and we still got nothing.
today, I tried to get clean off the distributor points, and the rotor, as
this was another suggestion from a gearhead friend of mine. this also did
not work, but I'm getting new ones tomorrow anyway. as well as a condensor.
so now my car is dead on the side of the road, just before it's winter nap.
any ideas?
thanks in advance.
. . . - . . .
glenn.a.lagasse: : : : : : : : : : :boy@xxxxxxxxxxxx
. . . . . . . . . . . .
.1956.Plymouth.Belvedere.4-door.Hardtop.Sport.Sedan.
[. . . . . . . .]
. . + . .
_____
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