Re: [FWDLK] 1960 Adventurer... Original engine?

[Bill Watson <wwatson5@xxxxxxxxx>]

There is no way to determine if the engine is the original or not.  Chrysler
did not stamp the VIN on the engine and the engine number listed the model
year code, engine size and date of assembly.   No sequence number in 1960.

All you can do is see if the engine was built about 3 or 4 months prior to
the car's scheduled build date, which is the first four digits of the SO
NUMBER on the data plate.  Also, the American 1960 Chrysler engines were all
RB blocks, including the 383.  The Dodge and DeSoto 383 was based on the B
block, a bored version of the 361.   So the DeSoto engine number will be
like that of the Dodge.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill K." <pontiac@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] 1960 Adventurer... Original engine?


> If there was antifreeze in it, I wouldn't even try to start it, except
> perhaps with water only in the cooling system (and well flushed at that).
> Water won't cool as well as antifreeze mix but it also won't mix with the
> oil and ruin your engine, if there is a leak or crack somewhere.
>
>
> These motors have a serial number on the block, on the front "below the
> water outlet elbow" - my book does a lousy job of describing the location,
> on my '60 Windsor it seems like the number was on the cylinder block below
> the edge of the head.  It doesn't tell anything about codes in the DeSoto
> section.
>
> The Chrysler section indicates the motor should have a code on it, the
> example they give for a '60 Windsor is PR-387-5 where the PR = 60 Windsor,
> 38 = 383 CI, and 7-5 means it was built July 5th.   A New Yorker 413 would
> be a P-41-7-5, which adds a dash between the engine displacement code and
> the date code - all in the same paragraph of the book (don't they
proofread
> or is that correct?!)
>
> The Dodge codes were on the right side of the block, if DeSoto and Dodge
are
> the same all it shows me is P-38 is the code for a 383.  My guess is they
> mean the right front below the head, which could be either side depending
on
> if the writer thought to indicate right side of the car or right as you
face
> it.   Plymouth 301s are on the left front of the block as I remember.
>
> Also seems as though if you find a sequential production number it may be
> close to but not quite match up to the sequential production number in the
> VIN.
>
> Seems odd they'd have a bunch of different codes for the same motors, but
I
> suppose to match each line's serial numbers they'd change the stamp.
Worst
> case you might have to scrape off some sludge, if your motor has no paint
> left you can always hit the code with a spray bomb of cheap primer to make
> it readable.
>
>
> The castings will have date codes on them which can also be used to help
> determine if the engine is likely original - I dont have a reference for
> that data.
>
>
> Bill K.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Whitman" <Robert.Whitman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 3:40 PM
> Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Adventurer... Original engine?
>
>
> I have a 1960 Adventurer 4dr.  It has not been run in almost 3 years, and
it
> is time to fire it up.  It ran fine, but the brakes quit braking.  I am
> having some concerns as I buy parts for the engine and related items, so I
> thought I would ask a few questions:  I was told that the engine was
> rebuilt, but the previous owner did not know if it was the original
engine,
> or for that matter, a 383 as all Adventurers came with.  Everything else
> about the car seems 100% original.  It is a red block with red valve
covers
> which is not typical for this car.  The air cleaner cover is original,
which
> leads me to believe a previous owner preferred to keep things original.
>
> How do I find out if this is the original motor, or what motor it is, if
not
> original.  Are there #'s on the block to tell me?  When I changed the oil,
> there was a bunch of green coolant mixed in......oh boy.  If my mechanic
> recommends a new motor, I want to know if this is the original block that
I
> may want to rebuild, or dump for something new because it is not original,
> anyway.
>
> In an effort to start it after 3 years of sitting in the garage, I have
been
> advised by a friend to:
> replace the plugs
> clean the fuel filter
> Oil prime the motor by pouring a teaspoon worth of oil in the spark plug
> holes.
> check all fluids
> then crank the motor for 60 seconds with the coil disconnected to prime
the
> motor more.
> then pray and try to start it....with a fire extinguisher nearby.
> Do you have any other basic thoughts or precautions for me?
>
> Sorry for my simplicity, but I don't know much about working on these
older
> cars.  Not a good way to be for a guy that loves old cars.  I'm workin on
> it.  And I love this DeSoto!!
> -Robert in K.C.
://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
>

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