The problem with primer is it's porous - moisture can get through it to the
metal, because it's made to be that way so paint will stick to it. If your
car was stored the entire winter in a heated, climate controlled garage - it
would probably be okay to just prime it or even oil it down (WD40 would even
work). But if you drive it, or let it be subject to temperature changes
that would cause condensation, it will get some moisture into it and that is
what causes rust.
If I were doing this depending on my budget I'd hit it with the etching
primer, a primer surfacer (available in a spray can for about $5 at Pep
Boys) and either a plain top coat in a compatible color, out of a rattle
can, or a sealer. Then so long as it's not out in the weather it should
stay fine - the key is sealing the primer once it's there. But if you're
not going to do any sanding or prep, you'll want the primer surfacer under
there so that when you finally do sand it, there's a little more paint there
before you sand through to the metal. If you expect to have to sand through
to the metal anyways, you could probably skip this step and just seal it
over the etching primer - if you sand a hole in that, you just prime with it
on that spot again. Odds are whatever color you put on there will mostly be
sanded away, but I'd get something close color wise or plan to seal it if
there is any paint left just in case - no sense having it bleed through
later.
Just FWIW, my Suburban has heavy rust in the wheelwells in back. I wire
brushed most of the spots and hit them with a sanding wheel, primed them and
coated them with some cheap paint. In just a few weeks of weather (and with
very little actual driving as I went through a nightmare brake rebuild) the
rust is starting to come through some spots already, mainly on edges where
it already rusted through. Granted this was just a rattle can job because
it was too cold outside to do it right, and I know on this thing it's
probably going to be a losing battle to fight the rot anyhow - but it still
doesn't take long if the moisture can find it's way into the metal.
Bill K.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lou" <email4lou@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Types of primer
> I've been told its almost futile to try it that way since you'll have to
> re-sand and re-prime anyway due to dirt, nicks, bugs, etc. There are
> also the concepts of "chemical bonding and mechanical bonding...to get
> certain paints to stick properly to certain pimers, there is a time
> window of opportunity (chemical bonding). When the primer has cured too
> long, then you have to sand re-primer before you paint. The
> recommendation I got was to use whichever primer you want, then paint
> over it with a coat of the appropriate type of paint for
> protection...even stuff in a rattle can. (color doesn't matter since you
> just want to cover it). I tried using epoxy primer and leaving
> uncovered and I drove the car. just a month or so later, the coating
> and the panel underneath it was starting to deteriorate.
>
> Dave & Tracy wrote:
>
> >What is the consensus on using a zinc primer on bare metal ? . I know
that traditionally it should be etch primer filler primer, topcoat. However
I need to paint some sheet steel on the new rear driverside quarter with out
painting other coats etc. So I am looking for a type of primer that is over
paintable at a latter date. could do with something that when dry is as hard
as Iron, to give max protection over the winter..
> >Dave.
> >
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