Yes you can, but before you do, run some checks. Check the bulb and make sure it's the correct kind for the socket (not a 2 filament bulb in a single socket or vice-versa) , then check for current inside the socket, with the test light. See if you have current there with the brake pedal depressed. If so, then see if you have current using the socket as ground and the probe on the contact. If there's no current at the socket, then there's an open between the switch and the socket. Mice in the trunk? They love to chew on wires. You may find a connector apart in the trunk. Pull apart any connector you find and check for corrosion. If all else fails, run your new wire. Good luck, Ray Ray Jones, Mena, AR in the Ouachita Mountains in western Arkansas Y'all com'on down and we'll sit ona porch and sip a few. On May 29, 2005, at 11:28 AM, Nichols wrote: On my '57 Dodge Coronet the brake lights won't come on. I've replaced the switch from a known switch that works, checked all the wiring and everything seems fine. When I do however connect a test light from one terminal of the switch to the negative post of the battery the test light comes on when I apply the brakes and goes off when I release the brake. This tells me that the switch is fine and the problem obviously lies somewhere else. My question is this: Could I just bypass all the wiring and connect a long jumper wire like this from the switch all the way to the taillights? thanks, Nick Nichols ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network