Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust Manifold Heat Valve
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Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust Manifold Heat Valve



    I think the anti rattle spring you are referring to is actually the thermal spring that opens the heat riser valve when the engine warms up. Use a graphite lubricant if you can find one.
 
John McCann
 
Wilbur, Washington
 
Picture site:
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust Manifold Heat Valve

Another option is to remove the anti-rattle spring. This allows the shaft to rattle around a little in the hole until it gets hot. This rubs off any accumulated carbon.

 

My favorite technique is to use a chisel and remove the plate from the shaft. Then it will never get stuck shut again. If you don?t plan on driving your car in winter, the heat valve is not necessary.

 

Dave Homstad

56 Dodge D500

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of JLSAVARD@xxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 10:20 PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust Manifold Heat Valve

 

In a message dated 6/13/2006 8:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

What lubricant do you use that won't burn off under the high heat of the
exhaust manifold ?

As I recall, we used things like Carburetor cleaner spray, or solvents, when the engine was cold.  The idea was to keep the carbon and rust from seizing the things up in the first place.  you can also use stuff like powdered graphite or lock de-icer which have graphite in suspension.  This carries the graphite into the shaft and leaves it after the solvent evaporates.

 

Don't use plain oil, because it will cook into carbon and make things worse.

 

The best policy is to get it free, and keep moving it every week or so to keep it free.

 

Joe Savard
Lake Orion, Michigan

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