Re: [FWDLK] Transmission Cable Questions
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Re: [FWDLK] Transmission Cable Questions

> What is the secret to aligning the cable at the transmission 
> end, so that my car won't go into gear when it's in neutral ?


Here's an old email from Dave Grove that helped me align mine.  (We miss you
still, Dave.)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Grove Grove Automotive [mailto:groveautomotive@xxxxxx] 
> Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 1:08 PM
> To: Dan Morton
> Subject: Re: Re: [FWDLK] Leaks 'R Us
> Hello Dan.
> That "shaft" is the actual shift cable.  It is connected to 
> the valve body inside the trans.
> It is much easier to describe *how* to disconnect it than to 
> actually do it (IMHO anyway), but it will help to know what 
> you are dealing with.  What retains the cable to the valve 
> body is a "hairpin clip".  To disengage this clip, you need 
> only to "move" the bottom of the "straight" side of it to one 
> side.  You can do this with an ice pick or something 
> similiar.  Reach into the hole with your pick (or whatever) 
> and "feel around" on the bottom side of the cable, - you 
> should be able to find the bottom part of the clip.
> Move to one side and attempt to remove the cable (just pull on it).
> Eventually, - it will come out.
> Another approach you may consider is to remove the trans pan. 
>  This will allow you to actually "see" what you are doing and 
> make things a lot easier.
> I would recommend this in your case for another reason, - 
> when it comes time to re-install & adjust the shaft cable, - 
> you *will* need to be able to see what's going on.  If your 
> service manual does not tell you how to remove the cable, - I 
> doubt seriously if it will tell you how to adjust it.
> Besides, - the "adjustment" procedure is so "complicated" (to 
> me anyway), that I always just remove the pan to begin with 
> and be done with it.  The only time I will NOT (remove the 
> pan) is if no one has "touched" the adjuster wheel, the 
> adjustment is correct at the moment, and I will not have to 
> "move" the adjuster wheel in order to do whatever it is I'm 
> going to do with the shift cable (I also "mark" where the 
> wheel is before I remove the bolt).
> Since I think you stated that the wheel has been moved 
> ("rotated"), - you will probably have trouble getting the 
> adjustment correct unless you do it the "simple" way (as in 
> "look" at it), - and what you are "looking" for is that the 
> "pointer" on the valve body piece (the one the cable snaps 
> into) that contacts the neutral safety switch is perfectly 
> centered on the switch when the "N" button is pushed.  This 
> point is changed by rotating the adjuster wheel on the cable 
> casing.  You probably noticed there are many holes for the 
> bolt to go through, - this is so you can get the adjustment perfect.
> 'Course now you need to be looking for a pan gasket.........
> Regards,
> DaveG.


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