Re: [FWDLK] Brake cylinder re-sleeve
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Re: [FWDLK] Brake cylinder re-sleeve



Brake hoses can do funny things. In some cases they can swell up when the brakes are applied. If one hose swells and the other side doesn't, the pressures will be different, if only briefly, and the car will pull. In other cases, the hose will start to come apart inside and when you apply the brakes, a rubber flap inside the hose will block the hose and the brake won't apply or it will prevent the fluid from returning to the Master Cylinder, keeping the wheel locked up for a while.
Always replace the hoses when doing any brake work.
Ray


On Sep 18, 2007, at 9:24 PM, eastern sierra Adj Services wrote:

I'm informed and believe that worn wheel cylinders should not be
discarded, but should be professionally re-sleeved.

However, my 2-centavos is that, if the wheel cylinders need
replacing/re-working, that all
the rubber brake lines should be replaced at that time (if not, well
before the cylinders ever get to be pitted/leaking, etc.)

My car is going to the auto-doc manana, where Brent Burger's car's
former 2.76 rear end is hopefully going to be installed, to replace the
OEM 3.36:1 (just to see what  its MPG & noise and performance is).

BUT: (finally getting to my point) I have read that if a car exhibits a
noticible initial 'pull' , when the brakes are applied, that the culpret
may not be a brake adjustment, but an INTERNAL failure, of a brake line,
which is partially collapsing.

My car is pulling, initially, but, when the brakes are continued to be
applied, it wants to stop in  a straight line.

So, the Doc is gonna replace both front brake lines (available across
the counter @ a good parts shop) too, & I'll give y'all a report on
whether the brakes stop pulling (hopefully!)

Neil Vedder


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From: Owen Grigg <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Date: September 18, 2007 6:23:49 PM CDT
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [FWDLK] Brake cylinder re-sleeve
Reply-To: Owen Grigg <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>


Hi all
 
I am curious to know, the for and against of sleeving brake master cylinders or wheel cylinders in stainless versus brass. I’ve been told that brass like the original cast iron retains some moisture in the bore, so acts as a lubricant and is easier on the rubber seals than stainless, that typically runs dry.
 
Any thoughts?
 
Thanks
Owen
 
 

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