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An anti-sieze lead-graphite paste applied to the tapered shafts will also ease future removal. Mine have come off easily after MANY years of intimate marriage.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: eastern sierra Adj Services <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxx>
> ..as far as "dumping" the tapered rear axle, just so that rear brake
> service might be enhanced, the rear brake drum is actually a TWO-piece
> affair, held together with pressed-in ("swaged") studs, which hold the
> outer drum-section to the inner hub-section.
>
> It is the hub-section that gets so tightly attached to the tapered
> axle..
>
> After someone uses a drum puller to remove the hub/drum assembly from
> the tapered axle, he can separate the 'drum' section from the central
> hub-section, so that, after the axle bearings are serviced or replaced,
> the hub and drum can be re-attached, together, using round-section
> studs instead of the square-sided "swaged" studs, which w!
ill per
mit the
> drum section literally to be able to fall-away from the hub section.....
> (which will still need a drum puller to remove it from the
> tapered-axle-end, when/should the AXLE bearings ever-again need a
> servicing, years/decades later)....so that servicing and adjusting the
> rear brake shoes
> can be as simple as servicing/adjusting the front brakes; VOILA! no rear
> axle replacement necessary!
>
>
>
> Neil Vedder
>
>
> Neil Vedder
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
- From: eastern sierra Adj Services <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 04:52:39 +0000
--- Begin Message ---
- From: "Bill K." <pontiac@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 00:26:31 -0400
Generally, guys who ditch the iron TF either round up the '62 aluminum case
with the drum on it, or change the rearend out for a later one with
provisions for a regular parking brake, and dump the tapered axle rear.
That makes brake service a bunch easier, and generally the newer brakes are
superior to the originals. Seems to me that setting up the trans case
parking brake is somewhat of a pain and the parts aren't that easy to find,
as well.
Trouble there is the bolt-in for the 60-62 cars is the 70-74 Cuda rearend -
even the one-leggers with high gear ratios for those cars bring pretty good
money. I'm not sure what works in the 55-56 and 57-59 cars, if there is a
later model Mopar (or even Ford, blasphemy I know, but the wheel bolt
pattern is the same) that's a direct bolt-in, or if you have to move the
perches on the housing. (I'm sure one can be found that's the right width).
Bill K.
----- Original Message -----
Blank
OK guys, got some questions, especially for those who've done
later-model drivetrain conversions.
I have a cast-iron 57 torqueflite tranny, so can, say a 78 318, be =
bolted via
adapter, to the old torqueflite?
Or, an older 50's Hemi be bolted to a later t-flite? Are there adapters =
to use a pushbutton selector on a later t-flite?
How does one use the old drum E-brake if you use a later t-flite?
Thanks
Bill The Magnumguy
Romans 8:28-29
http://www.mopowerstyle.net
Chapel & Magnum/Cordoba Forums
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