Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING
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Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING



I just want to let everybody know that uses or is using the Orange box with there Cars.   The Orange Box is not to be used for street use.  It is for Quarter Mile use only.  After I had my second  one fail,  I called Mopars Tech line.  They are the ones who told me it was never intended for street use.  That?s why they get so hot.  They are for short bursts of power.
 
                                                  Gary Barker

Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING

Over the years I have heard a lot of people rubbish Pertronix electronic ignition systems because they ?fail?, and then they go on to talk about the electronic box failing, which Pertronix does not have.

I would be interested to hear stories from some people who have had actual Pertronix branded units fail, from their own experience and not some folk story heard third hand.

From what I have heard, the ?separate box? type electronic ignition units do seem to be problematic, probably chinese made, but no actual Pertronix branded units failing, yet they all get tarred with the same brush.

I am sure that some must fail, there must be millions of them out there and nothing is perfect, but I would like to hear how many Pertronix units here have failed specifically.

Just curious.

Glenn.

 

 

Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 7:20 PM

Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING

 

I learned my lesson with my '58 Fury, it has an MSD ignition and one night in Jersey the box went bad, fun ride in a flatbed home. I've also had the Mopar "Orange" box in the '57 fail me but I learned many years ago with the Mopar electronics to carry spare boxes and ballast resistors. When I redo my '57 I'm putting points back in it, not really possible with the Hemi in the Fury, it needs all of the spark it can get.

Adam

 

In a message dated 8/19/2011 5:39:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

I carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!,
Neil Vedder



AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I personally do not trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no 
> matter how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket
> electronic  conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a complete points
> set up  with you for when it fails.
> Adam Lindenbaum


> In a message dated 8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> On that  Pertronix electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
> to mention (for  shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
> dual-point distributor, and/or  a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
> assembly (to install into a single-point  dissie, if that's what you
> have, now, or, the dualie can be used to replace  the entire
> single-point dissie).
>
> The C&P is needed  to  accommodate  the Pertronix  "under-
> cap" (hidden-) electronic  ignition system.
>
> At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues about  the
> performance of your existing dissie and/or a  replacement
> dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in  dualie-dissie
> must have a shaft length equal to your existing  dissie.
>
> There are two different shaft lengths on  the  FWDLK
> dissies, depending on the year/model of your car.
>
> A dualie  FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any other
> FWDLK dissie, however, for a  Pertronix installation.
>
> And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer about  installing
> a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding your
> car's  distributor's performance; but, that's a completely
> different, additional  very-long story!).
>
> Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a  Pertronix
> system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still installed,
> but,  merely not connected to the distributor.
>
> The Pertronix, all by itself,  will NOT improve your
> car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded  dissie
> does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent,
> hot, and  reliable.
>
> Now I know why Dave forgot to mention how/why
> a Pertronix  might be installed in a dissie!!!
>
>
> Neil  Vedder
>
>
>
>
> Dave Homstad wrote:
>  
>> Ed,
>>
>> Some  things to consider:
>> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can handle  several amps of current.
>> It also should be a "wire wound" style.  These are intended to allow
>> maximum current flow when cold, and  increase resistance as they warm
>> up to reduce current flow to the  ignition coil.
>> 2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high  temperature solder.
>> 3.  I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor  for sale all the time.
>> Looks nearly identical to the old style except  the terminals are
>> different.
>> 4. For my car, I bought a  ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the
>> original except for the  terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
>> 5. If you convert to a  PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast
>> resistor if you use their  coil or one with an internal resistance.
>>
>>
>> Dave  Homstad
>> 56 Dodge D500
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM,  eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>
>>    
>>> Hello  Members
>>>
>>> I have an orig 1957/58 ballast resister   (very rare as we all
>>> know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on  the back side is shot.
>>>
>>> I have been looking locally for  a shop to solder in a new in line 1
>>> ohm resister between the two  terminals
>>>
>>> Job is too small--they are not  interested.
>>> but it is somewhat intricate since you almost have to  solder it blind.
>>>
>>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you do  this type of soldering??
>>>
>>> ED ECKERSON
>>>  LI  NY
>>>
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>>    
>
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