Pretty much everything I've read says that after proper break in with the
proper oil, regular oil works just fine on flat tappet engines with
"normal" valve spring pressures. I am using regular oil
in 4 cars for years now with no problems. I think Rotella is now
either without ZDDP or with a much lesser amount.
Bill Huff
At 03:16 PM 8/3/2014, Jim wrote:
I've found two easy ways to get
the ZDDP back in the oil. One is to buy the Redline Break-In Additive and
use about 3 oz of it with each oil change. The other, even easier,
is to buy a can of STP, which has the right amount of ZDDP in it, when
you buy the oil and filter and put the STP in along with the new
oil. The advantage of the Redline is that it's actually a little
cheaper per dose and is easy to poor. The STP is thick and hard to
pour. But the STP is available anywhere so it's pretty
convenient.
- From: Bill Parker <hemirr@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Sent: Sunday, August 3, 2014 12:09 PM
- Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
- Thanks for the input guys. I agree about the oil. I've
driven the car a total of about 10 miles since buying it from another
list member who also didn't drive it during his ownership I
believe. There is a receipt from a commercial garage showing a ring
and bearing job, but the receipt has no date on it. The inside of
the engine is very clean and the oil isn't bad either so since that minor
overhaul it must have been reasonably maintained, but of course with low
ZDDP oil like we are all stuck with in the mainstream oils. I'm
thinking of using rotella once I'm back up and running since I don't have
a converter to get clogged up with zinc.
- Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of
old and newer Mopars
- On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Neil Vedder
<esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx
> wrote:
- Oh, that must be absolutely true, because nobody in the old car
- hobby knows about the effects of NOT having ZDDP in flat tappet
- car engines.
- And, of course, the ruined cam shafts render the car and its engine
completely
- unrepairable and worthless.
- The car mechanics, in particular, hate the effects of having to work
on these
- damaged engines.
- Neil Vedder
- On 8/3/2014 12:05 AM, Dave Homstad wrote:
- Bill,
- You might give some thought as to
WHY the
cam has developed 3 bad lobes.
- Here is a good article about how "OIL IS KILLING OUR
CARS!!!!!".
- http://www.dctra.org/?p=79
- Personnally, I think this is a plot by the EPA to get old cars off
the roads quicker, by removing the ZDDP from our oils.
- Dave Homstad
- 56 Dodge D500
- On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at 6:43 PM, Bill Parker wrote:
- Hello all, I tore into the '60 Saratoga engine today, an RB
383, and as I suspected from the symptoms, it has a wiped camshaft.
One lobe is just a little nubbin', and two others are clearly half what
they should be. Seems like a simple cam swap is in order except of
course for the small matter of early B/RB lifters and pushrods being
different dimensions from the later ('66 and later?) stuff. From a
previous experience with putting a cam and lifter kit into a '65 engine,
I think I recall that the late lifters are taller, and must use the late
pushrods to compensate. I could have it backwards, but in any case,
I think the solution to using a late cam and lifter kit is using the late
pushrods too. I have several core 440 engines and I'm thinking,
make a cam selection, buy the late style lifters with it, and use a set
of the 440 pushrods (being that both my '60 383 and the 440's are RB
engines with the same deck height).
Comments/cautions/suggestions? This is not my hot rod and I plan to
go with a pretty mild cam.
- Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of
old and newer Mopars
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