Re: [Chrysler300] running temp

[Rich Barber <barber@xxxxxxxxx>]

All true, but note the radiator temperature and the block temperature 
will not be anywhere near the same until the thermostat fully opens.  
Wildly gyrating temperatures can result from a sticking thermostat.  
Also note that an additional major value of antifreeze is corrosion 
control of everything metallic in the fluid system.  Antifreeze doesn't 
wear out insofar as its thermodynamic properties are concerned, but it 
does "wear out" and needs changing when it's corrosion inhibitor is 
shot.  Corrosion products can then float around the system and foul the 
heat transfer surfaces in block, head, radiator and heater core.  We've 
all seen the results and it ain't pretty.  Some of the black gunk is 
also broken down ethylene glycol.  The stuff will oxidize and produce a 
gummy, black carbon-based goo.  Periodic draining, flushing and changing 
out of antifreeze beats damage from corrosion and resultant overheating.

We have also all read and/or experienced the horror stories of popping 
"freeze" plugs, especially after going to highly pressurized cooling 
systems.  The cooling system needs to be able to withstand the higher 
pressures and temperatures.  After-market gauges to monitor coolant, oil 
and transmission fluid temperatures may be appropriate in severe 
service, like 4th of July parades and pulling stumps in the desert.

MoPa'r to ya and blow not thy cool!

Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA

Ray Jones wrote:

>Tim;
>It sounds fairly normal. You might want to check your gauge against another
>thermometer. Use a big kitchen thermometer, like you stick in a roast, and
>leave it in the fill hole of the rad while the car warms up. Then keep
>checking it against the dash gauge to see if they are in the same range.
>Dash gauges are "more or less" accurate, and are mostly for general
>reference only. They are not exact scientific gauges.
>
>The purpose of Antifreeze is as much to raise the boiling point of the
>water in the system as it is to lower the freezing point. That, along with a
>12-14# cap keeps the water from boiling at 212. With the higher pressure,
>the boil point is raised to about 240, and the engine runs at a "normal" 220
>degrees. This is why you never open the cap on a hot engine, the release of
>pressure instantly allows the 215-220 degree water to boil.
>
>Enjoy, Ray
>  
>




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