Re: [Chrysler300] a/c freon(s)

[mwl1967@xxxxxxx]

Hi all,
              Time to add my .02 to the mix. Living here in AZ and running a 
collision  shop has exposed me to numerous permutations on A/C systems. I'll 
share  some of them and try to summarize.
 
        First, some of the older  R-12 systems have been running well on the 
R-12 replacement products like Dan  mentioned. They are relatively expensive 
compared to R-134 and also probably  flammable.  
 
        Second, I've seen older  systems flushed and running on R-134. What's 
done out here when utilizing the  old RV2 compressors is to remove the valve 
in the back of the compressor. I  forget its name but it looks and is about 
the size of a hydraulic  lifter and located in the compressor behind the hose in 
back. This allows the  system to run colder than it normally would and no the 
system doesn't freeze up  due to the high temps out here. 
 
        Third, a Sanden rotary  compressor conversion system should work 
fine. Your conversion should  consist of not only the compressor but also new 
"barrier" hoses and a new  condenser. The new hoses will not only limit R134 
leakage from your system but  will also prevent the crud that's inside your old 
hoses from clogging your  system. Using a new condenser will not only prevent 
crud from the old one  from clogging up your system (yes, there's crud in there 
even if you've flushed  it) but it's also much more efficient than your 
original one. This is  probably the most critical part of running R-134. 
        An old A/C condenser, much  like an old radiator, can look fine and 
be flushed and still not dissipate heat  correctly or as efficiently as when it 
was new.  If you've already forgone  originality by bolting on a Sanden 
rotary then a new aftermarket condenser  shouldn't bother you... you may even be 
able to get rid of your electric fans.  If you're running your old style RV2 
compressor with R-134 and have been happy  with it you'll be even happier with a 
new condenser.
 
        Fourth, charging and  maintaining the proper level of R-134 is 
necessary. Always assemble with a new  drier and new barrier hoses. An A/C shop can 
make new hoses relatively  inexpensively. Also ask for and use Nylog. This A/C 
sealant should be used  on all connections when assembling your system. Nylog 
is available in two ways..  one for R12 and one for R134.   
 
        Finally (?), complaints  about poor A/C can sometimes be traced to 
other issues. All under-dash ducts  should be intact and not leaking. A heater 
control valve that doesn't close all  the way will completely ruin any chance 
you have for optimum cooling  temperature. Have you opened the evaporator box 
to vacuum out 50 years of crud  that's probably in there?  Check it all out. 
You know what happens when one  "assumes".
 
Mike Laiserin
Phoenix, AZ



**************Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape.     
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/