Re: [Chrysler300] Rear Power Window Write Up

["Don Warnaar" <300country@xxxxxxx>]

Hi Jim,

Commendations are in order for your very detailed help on the power window situation.  Well done.

Don Warnaar
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx> 
  To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
  Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 12:55 PM
  Subject: [Chrysler300] Rear Power Window Write Up



  Since there were more than a few requests on this information I thought I'd post it to the whole group. 

  Jim Krausmann

  I originally started this project to clean and lube the power window tracks on my 300C. The windows just wouldn't roll well anymore. The '57 factory service manual has only basic information and one photo (page 378) on this work. 
   
  This is also a  good time to consider replacing the inner and outer cat whisker weatherstrips, roof rail weatherstrip and the quarter glass weatherstrip (Goers parts) if you need to. 
   
  Removal Time
  Remove rear seat base, seat back and the lower/upper trim panels.
  Remove the power window switches from the trim panels and reinstall the switches on the wiring connectors. Mark the switches with masking tape as to which direction is up and down. You won't want to be guessing on this later in the job.
  Remove the plastic weather sheeting. Mine were so cheesy I made new ones. The heavy grade plastic sheeting used for drop cloths/house painting worked well.  
  Run a strip of wide masking tape at the inner and outer window slot on the car body to avoid scratching the glass and paint.
  I'd suggest doing one side at a time to have a visual reference on how it fits together. 
  Remove the screws and metal cover over the power window motor. There's also a bolt in the center of the cover holding it to the window motor. Remove the bolt. 
  Use the factory service manual if you have one to identify the bolts for the front and rear glass runs (lets call them the window tracks) and the upper window stop. There are two bolts for each. 
  Now look inside the window motor opening. You'll see there are two bolts holding the window lift arm to a metal "slide" that fits inside a real wide vertical track. The slide is zinc, maybe 4" long. 
  There are also 2 bolts near the rear end of the window glass holding a metal bracket. This bracket is used to contact the lower side of the window stop. 
  Use a magic marker or scratch awl to mark the original positions of all bolts.
  If your window motor and regulator is working well at this point they can be left in and cleaned in place. It's a lot easier. It was obvious that the issues with my car were caused by the dirt and dried grease in the tracks. Take motor and regulator out after the window glass if you want. 
  Lower the window a little more than half way
  Remove the front window track bolts. Leave the track in place but loose for now
  Remove the upper window stop bolts and the window stop. 
  Remove the rear window track bolts and the rear track. This track will come out through the window motor opening. Mark which end of the track is the top.  Don't ask why I know this.
  The glass will now pivot up and down quite easily.  It also moves forward/backward a bit. Tilt the front of the glass up and pull the front window track down and off the window glass roller. Just leave the front track inside the body. Lean it against the outer quarter panel for now. 
  Move the glass around as needed and remove the 4 bolts holding the 2 metal brackets noted above.
  Look in the center hole and locate the horizontal metal slide that the lift arm is connected to. Notice the track slot is open at the rear. Here the tricky part. The glass and glass frame can now be slid from front to rear a bit. Don't let it fall. Lower the glass with the power switch (aren't you glad you marked it now?) or by manually turning the rubber coupler on the window motor a little bit at a time.  You'll find a spot where the glass will slide forward and the lift arm and roller will slide out the rear of that horizontal window slide.  The glass is now completely loose.
  Now for the exciting part. Lift the front of the glass up and angle for the front of the window slot. If you're lucky the slot will be open far enough to slide the window and the attached roller right out.  If not, you'll need to use a vice grip or pliers to gently persuade a short section (only as wide as the glass roller) of the interior metal panel open about 3/8 inch. This can be bent back later with no damage. If you're really averse to bending metal, you can fit a box end wrench to the offending bolt/roller and remove it from the glass frame. This is a bit tricky working by yourself because the bolt head is so thin and you're already holding the glass. The rear glass roller will come out the factory slot. 
  Now reach in and remove that front window track.  
   
  Maintenance time! 
  Check the heavy fabric that is lining the window stop bracket. Mine was partially worn through and bunched up. I was able to remove and position it to improve the contact. Re-glue the fabric with trim cement.  
  Replace outer cat whisker and roof rail weatherstrips if you need to. 
  Replace the quarter glass rubber weather strip. I used dish soap to lube the window slot and slide the rubber in.
  Clean and lube the window tracks (2), the motor gears, the window slide, the lift arm roller and the window glass slot and rollers.  I had to use a putty knife for the heavy dry grease. WD-40 makes a great solvent for loosing up the remaining old crud. I used lithium grease for re-lubing all sliding parts.
  Vacuum the dirt and junk from the bottom of the quarter panel if present. It's surprising how much stuff ends up down there. 
  Look inside the window slot and clean-oil-grease anything on the motor and regulator that moves. I'd use good quality oil, not WD40 for this. A "zoom spout" (extendable) oiler available at the hardware store is most helpful here.
  You'll need to run the window motor up and down a bit while doing the cleaning. A real dumb thing to do is run the motor "up" too far.  If the little gear on the window motor gets to the end of the big regulator gear bad things will happen. The spring force in the regulator will tomahawk the lift arm around to the front. I did the dumb thing. Twice. No damage but hope none of your body parts are in the way. This is the main reason I didn't take the motor and regulator out. It might be worse if it occurs on the workbench. If it happens, manually and carefully move the lift arm back down to the point where it contacts the motor gear. Bump the motor switch or turn the rubber coupler until the gear teeth mesh again. That's all that holds it in place. 
   
  Assembly Time
  Slide in the window motor and regulator if you removed them. Put the front track back inside and leave it loose. Then lower the window glass in. Move the glass around till you can get the front window roller in this track. Leave the front track loose for now.  Install the rear track and bolts finger tight. Jockey/lower the glass to about 2/3 down and slide the glass back to hook the window lift roller in the slot. There is a fairly good "sweet spot" where all these connections can be accomplished.  
  Install all bolts and brackets to the original positions. 
  Slowly bump the window switch down and then up to check the fit. Also remember to check the quarter window fit with the adjoining door glass and adjust the stop as needed.   
  Make sure that the power window motor and switch wires are positioned away from the moving window parts.
  I used a border of 3M strip caulk (dum dum) to secure the plastic sheeting in place over the inner quarter panel. It peels off fairly well if you have to go back in.   
  Now do the other side. 
  Now impress your fellow club members at the next meet with how well they work. Power window races anyone?  
   
   

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