RE: [Chrysler300] Short lesson in thermodam

[<john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I believe the function of the thermostat is the same as in your house- to regulate temperature.  It is closed when cold because the engine was designed to operate at 180 or 195 (or whatever the engine spec calls for) and the coolant should not remove heat from the block until/unless that point is reached (winter driving or at start up for instance).  The thermostat then opens when desired operating temperature is reached to avoid overheating.  If you take the car to a reputable radiator shop they will probably have an infrared heat gun which they can point at the upper radiator hose as it exits the top of the engine which should be the hottest point in the cooling system.  The temperature at that point should be within a few degrees of the value of the thermostat when the engine is fully warmed up.  If it's much hotter than the thermostat rating then you have something wrong (flow/blockage/timing, etc.)

I currently own a 392 hemi, a 413 wedge, and a 440.  I have owned other 413's, 383's, and 440's as well.  I am continually amazed at how much more heat appears to come out of a 440 than the other two engines.  I have a 190 degree thermostat in my Hurst, and my radiator shop guy used his gun and only got a reading of 193 out of the top radiator hose, but the heat in the engine compartment is way more intense than that of any 413 or 383 or 392, and I attribute that to the exhaust gasses passing through the exhaust manifold and intake crossover port.

I can't keep Mopar Orange Hi temp paint from discoloring on my valve covers since the hi performance manifolds of the TNT engine come so close to them, and I can barely even keep paint on the intake manifold crossover passage.  The engine bay on the Hurst is like a blast furnace compared to the C or G engine bay.  I even had to replace the (original) o-rings from the top of the power steering gear (where the hoses attach to the flange that is bolted on top of the gear) as they had hardened and crumbled from the heat over the years.

 

The timing is set properly on all three cars and none of them overheat in the traditional sense of boil over, but man look out when you open the hood on the Hurst relative to the other two.

I had similar issues with the 440 in my Jensen Interceptor automobiles over the years as well- no boil over, but lots of engine bay heat.

 

If someone out there can tell me this should not be the case and how to remove more heat from my Hurst engine bay it would be greatly appreciated.

Over the years I have tried looking at the engine bays of other Mopars with Hi Performance 440's as a comparison, but usually when I see a GTX or RR with a 440 it also has aftermarket valve covers (Direct Connection or Mopar Performance), unpainted Edelbrock aluminum intake, and aftermarket headers which have all been put on to avoid the brownish tinged original orange paint syndrome that I am living with.

Thanks

 

John Nowosacki

978-681-2219

 

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________________________________

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of james mcmullan
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 11:23 AM
To: Listserver
Subject: [Chrysler300] Short lesson in thermodam

 






Hi List .You cannot move Cold ,You can move Heat (ether in or out of something) But it takes TIME .You haft to hold watter in the radiator long enough for the heat to transfer to the core and be removed by air flow.That is the the purpose of the thermostat .If the watter flows to fast it will not have TIME to transfer heat Jim McMullsn 300 F. 

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