RE: [Chrysler300] Re: Freeze out plug
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RE: [Chrysler300] Re: Freeze out plug



Thanks for clearing that up Richard. My appologies, I thought there must be something I was missing. 

 

Now I've learned something new. Thank you.


Ryan Hill 


 


To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:30:34 +0000
Subject: [Chrysler300] Re: Freeze out plug

  




Ryan,

I am referring to the welch type plug, not the cup type which I believe is what you are mentioning. The cup type as you are indicating are a press fit, but do not require any sort of distortion in order to hold it in place. The welch type absolutely requires distortion in order to be held in place. The cup type is much preferred, in my opinion, but cannot be used in the earlier B/RB (plus Hemi) motors unless there is considerable machining done to the heads and block. Obviously this machining cannot take place with the motor in the car.

There are subtle differences between early and late RB motors, just like the 4 bolt valve covers vs. 6 bolt in later years.

Best regards,

Richard Osborne
--- In Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@...> wrote:
>
> 
> I'm not sure if I missed something here Richard but you describe placing the frost plug with the curve facing outward. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've yet to ever see a plug placed in the hole backwards. 
> 
> 
> 
> All the plugs I've worked with were designed to be driven in with the outer flange trailing and should appear concave (vs. convex) when installed, this makes it more difficult for internal pressure to punch them out. I've yet to have one fail, other than from corrosion, and never use any type of adhesive. They should be driven in until the edge of the flange is set about 1/8" beyond the block/head surface. 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always been of the understanding they were there for two reasons. To empty the casting sand from the block when manufactured and then to offer protection from frost damage in colder climates if the coolant were to freeze. The plugs are designed to push out before the block or heads crack. Something that might be more difficult if it were JB welded in. (Fine if the car is always in a warm climate I suppose) 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on your description of the plug "fitting somewhat snug into the machined hole", I would venture to guess the plugs you're using are too small. They should not fit into the whole without being driven in. 
> 
> 
> 
> My experiences have all been with later B/RB engines ('64 up) and some older Chev blocks so maybe I'm missing something inherent with the earlier mopar heads? Perhaps getting the right size plug is the problem?
> 
> 
> 
> Ryan Hill 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> From: richard@...
> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:39:22 +0000
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Re: Freeze out plug
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> I feel your pain. I struggled with these plugs in my G. This is bringing back many bad memories.
> 
> I believe these are called "welsh plugs". I cannot remember the size. I mic'd the ID of the hole and then matched as closely as possible, seems there are even metric sizes if I remember correctly.
> 
> These are concave shaped stamped metal, they fit somewhat snug into into the machined hole within the head (or engine block) with the curve facing OUTWARD of the engine. With a blunt device (I used a 1/2" drive socket extension), you whack the heck out of it to make it expand and create a tighter friction fit to the machined surface.
> 
> Here are my opinions and methods which have lasted for almost 10,000 miles which included a trip through the 113F dessert in Arizona:
> 
> -Clean the machined surface, I used lacquer thinner.
> -Find a plug which is the tightest possible when pushed in by hand.
> -coat the edges of the plug and head/block with JB Weld, then insert plug.
> -Smack the heck out of the plug with something that is a little smaller than the diameter of the plug. I recommend smacking as infrequently as possible, I think once is ideal, but not always practical.
> -Let it sit for a few days to allow the JB Weld to firm.
> 
> I do not claim to have eliminated this possibility. I still carry the rubber temporary expansion plugs as a precaution.
> 
> Hope this helps, good luck!
> 
> Richard Osborne
> 
> --- In Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Mark Souders <MRS954@> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > This morning I was driving my 300H and three miles from the house, I pulled out from a traffic light, and something went POP. Then there was a white cloud of smoke coming from under the car. I pulled off the highway, opened the hood and found that a freeze out plug removed itself from the left head. With the help of a few gallons of water, I nursed it back home. Now I need to know what size plug goes into that hole, what kind to get, and how do I install it so that it won't escape again? The FSM is very evasive about this subject. This plug has been in the head for 8 years and 13,000 miles, not rusted out, the whole plug is gone, and the paint is chipped off the upper control arm. I'm glad it didn't happen a few hundred miles earlier, when I was in Myrtle Beach!
> > 
> > Thanks for the help,
> > 
> > Mark Souders
> > 300H
> > Mohrsville, PA
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________
> Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now.
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




 		 	   		  
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