Re: [Chrysler300] rear drums

["Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

  I needed drums for a '67 Polara a number of years ago. Fremans in Whitehall, MT, supplied good used parts. BUT the drums were not harvested and then measured and shipped from Freman's to me as good. They were trued and resurfaced on a brake lathe and then checked and shipped. This is not a super fast way to source used parts. I have received bad used parts like drums and wheels  from many other sources. Freman's did it right. 

  Any new or used drum will need to be trued and resurfaced on a brake lathe. This process is absolutely necessary to make drum brakes work properly. After 29 years machining drums in my own shop, I can make the statistically sound statement that no new drum should ever be put into service as supplied right out of the box. New drums will be out of round and bell mouthed always, every one of the things. 

  Used drums will not be round and will need resurfacing and may need to be finish ground with a second process to smooth out 'hot spots'.

  Drum brakes, with properly  finished drums and shoes that fit the drums, will be smooth and quiet.   And, some shoes for older cars come big to fit worn out drums and these shoes must be cam/arc ground (with another tool that is not easy to find) to fit the drums. 

  Professionals figured out a long time ago that rebuilt wheel cylinders are very risky and always replace with new.  

  Swaged wheel studs (if you have them) will have to have the swages cut with a special cutter. The process was once commonplace but it can be hard to find the service today. The studs will need to be pressed out of the hub and drum (and best yet eventually) replaced. A really big hammer will do the job, destroy the studs and bend the hub for sure. New drums will need to be swaged to the hub but this step I have seen bypassed carefully and the result will work. 

  Warren Anderson
  Sedona,AZ




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