Re: [Chrysler300] 57 - 59 grill U nuts

[Keith Boonstra <kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

  I'll check into the Oxy-Solve product.  If that actually works like 
you say it does, it sounds like a decent alternative.  But I've found a 
lot of these rust curing products end up being mostly advertising 
puffery.  For example, Duro's "Extend" claims to actually convert rust 
and turn it into a black primer surface.  BS.  You can use it and get 
your part looking all purdy, but then if you go back and scrape it 
you'll find it just hid a layer of rust under it.  And someday your 
finish is going to fall back off again.  It's made me pretty skeptical 
of the claims of any of these conversion products, but I'll look into 
how well the Oxy-Solve actually works chemically.

To me it's really important to get this sort of thing right.  It can be 
downright disheartening to work your buns off restoring something, only 
to have it return to it's former nasty state a few years later.  You 
really have to first figure out why it didn't stay looking good good in 
the first place, and then treat it in such a way as to keep the 
deterioration from happening again.

Thanks for your comments.


Keith Boonstra


-

On 8/20/2010 9:14 AM, Ron Waters wrote:
> Thanks Keith.
> The reason I use the Bill Hirsh stuff (or POR-15) is because it's 
> designed to adhere to rust.
> If the bolt, fastener, etc. is one that's unique to our cars and can't 
> be replaced anywhere, then I'd soak it in Oxy-Solv, which is a 
> non-toxic chemical that disolves rust and leaves a zinc phosphate 
> coating. I've used this on rusty data plates where wire wheeling would 
> destroy the stamped numbers.
> Ron
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     *From:* Keith Boonstra <mailto:kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>     *To:* Ron Waters <mailto:ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>     *Cc:* Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>     <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>     *Sent:* Friday, August 20, 2010 8:47 AM
>     *Subject:* Re: [Chrysler300] 57 - 59 grill U nuts
>
>     I may have made it sound nasty, but naphtha is just a really clean
>     paint thinner; and, geez, don't you ever clean your toilet bowls
>     or put oil on something?  This is all ordinary household stuff. 
>     And then tell me please how you get your wire brush down in the U
>     of the U-bolt.  If you don't get rid of every trace of the rust
>     before you put whatever finish on it, you're going to be doing it
>     all over again someday.
>
>     Keith Boonstra
>
>
>     On 8/19/2010 9:17 PM, Ron Waters wrote:
>>
>>     Wow. Sounds like a lot of ugly, caustic chemicals in this multi-step
>>     process.
>>
>>     I would achieve the same results by wire wheeling the rusty nuts
>>     (held by
>>     vice grips). Then I'd string 'em up on a coat hanger and lightly
>>     brush with
>>     Bill Hirsh Miracle Paint (which I prefer over POR-15). Let them dry
>>     overnight for a semi-gloss black. Or if you want to get creative,
>>     wait until
>>     the Miracle Paint tacks up, then rattle-can spray them silver,
>>     cast color or
>>     whatever floats your boat.
>>
>>     Ron
>>
>>     ----- Original Message -----
>>     From: "Keith Boonstra" <kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>>     <mailto:kboonstra%40zeegroup.com>>
>>     To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>     <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>>
>>     Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 2:09 PM
>>     Subject: [Chrysler300] 57 - 59 grill U nuts
>>
>>     > And here's the rest of the story -- Rusty parts like my grill
>>     U-nuts
>>     > that are too small or intricate to sandblast can be a real PIA,
>>     but this
>>     > worked so slick I gotta tell you how I did it.
>>     >
>>     > I took about an ounce of Lysol blue liquid toilet bowl cleaner
>>     and mixed
>>     > it with an ounce of motor oil. I dropped the clips in the
>>     mixture and
>>     > pulled them out just a few hours later. All the rust was gone
>>     and I had
>>     > bare metal parts. The Lysol removes the rust, and the oil keeps the
>>     > parts from immediately re-oxidizing, just like when you quench
>>     tempered
>>     > steel. Then I rinsed and cleaned them with detergent water,
>>     after which
>>     > I swished them in naphtha and dried them. I love making the
>>     chemicals
>>     > do the work - just try not to breathe that stuff.
>>     >
>>     > Next I made a small thin 50/50 mixture of black Rustoleum and
>>     naphtha,
>>     > dipped the U-nuts in there, pulled them out, and hung them up
>>     to dry.
>>     > The next day I lined them up and sprayed them with a coat of
>>     semi-gloss
>>     > black enamel. A couple hours later I laid them on a sheet of
>>     aluminum
>>     > foil and put them in my wife's oven at 350 degrees for an hour.
>>     This
>>     > morning they have a satin sheen baked enamel black finish on
>>     them that's
>>     > hard like a rock. Beautiful.
>>     >
>>     > I think the old ad motto was "Better Living Through Chemistry"
>>     >
>>     > Keith Boonstra
>>     >
>>     >
>>     >
>>     > ------------------------------------
>>     >
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>>     >
>>     >
>>     >
>>
>>     
>


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