[Chrysler300] Distributor rebuild and Pertronix advice

[Ray Melton <rfmelton@xxxxxxx>]

Hello All --

I recently had the distributor from my 1957 300C rebuilt by The Philbin
Group (Google it) and had them install a Pertronix unit that I had purchased
from fellow club member John Lazenby.  They told me specifically that the
Pertronix definitely worked better when running on a full 12 volts, and to
therefore bypass the ballast resistor.  They even discussed leaving the
ballast resistor in place and running a dummy wire if absolute stock
appearance  was important.  They also said that since the Pertronix was
merely a switching device, it did NOT change the voltage to the plugs;
however, the car might run better under marginal ignition conditions if the
higher-voltage Blaster coil were substituted for the stock unit.  They said
the stock coil  and copper-core plug wires would be adequate, but advised
that I have the entire ignition system checked out with the engine running
using an old-school analyzer to ensure all the old components were still up
to as-new specifications.  We also discussed the spotty reliability record
of the Pertronix system, and they indicated that in their experience, a
significant number of those failures seemed to stem from running with the
ballast resistor still in the circuit, forcing the Pertronix to run on less
than the full voltage it was designed for.  

NOTE:  I have not yet installed the rebuilt distributor/Pertronix, but will
report when everything is running again.  I would also note that I selected
The Philbin Group to rebuild my distributor specifically because their
website mentioned that they marketed and installed the Pertronix systems for
numerous other vehicle applications, and were quite experienced with those
units.  In addition, they were equipped to repair the vacuum advance unit if
that were required.   At my request, they provided a "before-and-after
rebuild" chart showing  distributor shaft runout, centrifugal ignition
advance vs. RPM, and vacuum advance at various levels of manifold vacuum.
(the shaft runout, gummed-up centrifugal advance and worn, mis-gapped points
were so bad I'm surprised the engine ran at all!)  After about three weeks
in the shop, they returned the distributor carefully repainted and looking
like new, inside and out.  Total cost was $160.  In a follow-up call after
the distributor was returned,  I mentioned the rather modest total ignition
advance, and they opined that due to the central plug location in the hemi
engines and consequent superior combustion characteristics, significantly
less spark advance was required to achieve best performance than in a
comparable wedge-head engine of the era.   They were an excellent outfit to
work with and I highly recommend them.

Ray Melton
Las Cruces, NM
1957 Chrysler 300C convertible, white/Gauguin, S/N 3N572517

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of RICK AND DEBBIE CLAPHAM
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:24 PM
To: Rich Barber; mark6268@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables/Sure Grip or not?


Rich; I have only installed the Petronix igniter system that says it
operates 8 to 16 volts and did not say anything about bypassing the coil
ballast resistor. I have the original coil and it is a 6v coil.  if you use
the igniter blaster coil it might want you to bypass the resistor. I was
also told the fastest way to get back on your feet was to use a petronix
system. I am crossing my fingers this doesn't happen. I keep the old points
and wires in the console just in case . 



To: mark6268@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: c300@xxxxxxx
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 17:58:36 -0800
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables/Sure Grip or not?

  



I'm also curious as to whether the Petronix system starts on 12 V and runs
on lower voltage fed through the ignition resistor-or just a full 12 V at
all times?

Second question: How does one check for a Sure-Grip differential in a non-op
car? With one rear wheel jacked up and the tranny in neutral should the
jacked-up wheel turn freely or lock up? With both rear wheels jacked up,
does turning one wheel cause the other to rotate in the same or reverse
direction?

Rich Barber

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Ronald Kurtz
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 1:31 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables

Hello, everyone:

What is the best ignition cable and coil to use with a Petronix Flamethrower

distributor? I am thinking about upgrading my ignition system.

Best,
Ron Kurtz
E #292

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