Tom,
I would use the other power windows as an indicator, or ability
to crank
car, as indicators of battery. The super duper battery chargers are
mostly
BS ,as you can tell very little of AH or battery charge state from
terminal
volts at rest. (engineering fact) Your observation of "charge time
makes no
sense" is right...% full impossible to tell, from volts, despite
fancy
claims. Went through this..consider a battery of 80 AH , a good one
fully
charged, rest volts about 12.6 . Takes about 2 + hours to fill if dead
with
35 A alternator ; however if full and you put a trickle charger etc on
it
over storage (winter) , they are putting out about 100mA ; = .1 amp ; in
24
hours you have 2.4 AH, in 30 days 72 AH; into a battery already full.
(2x
overcharge) that turns the water to gas, battery is junk after a few
months
of this. Automatic chargers read volts and try to deal with this , but
an
unloaded resting good charged battery with 10 AH might read 12.6, as will
a
bad battery, as will a full battery. Automatic turns on, because of
the
12.6, raises to 13.8 and off; repeats, over and over . =
See
overcharge!!...Approach is a loser. Sick of buying 4-5 batteries
every
spring. Now I put it on once a month for a few days. Many battery
chargers
read battery volts by a divider resistor , draining battery into
charger if
you just unplug the charger --you have to pull clips
too..../especially junk
ones harbor tool sells. (LED is still on when not
plugged in, showing that
drain). Note that the car VR raises it to 14 or so,
only when car is
running..it sits then for a long time ; there is no attempt
to maintain
charge , once full, just fill it back up to 14 at start --it IS
full at 14
on charge for sure . I noted 10 year old Toyotas run like that,
still have
original battery, yet 300 big new battery on "fancy charger"
cannot make one
winter without degradation ?
Back to PW, You could
measure amp draw of motor with 0-20 or 0-30 ammeter,
ought to be same up and
down with spring right, compare what you see to
others ; beyond battery , you
might have a problem in motor, stuck brush in
brush holder,---ammeter will
flicker and waver(and brush is burning) ;
assume all rollers free and
working. On early ones (Some F for sure) there
is a circuit breaker inside
the motor at brush. It can get rusty and poor
contact, erratic behavior ; I
have shorted them out,(solder wire across it)
there to protect motor from
burnout if kid holds switch after window is
up,-- I have taken to drilling
drain hole .060 at obvious low place, heater
motors too, get condensation
out.
Best, John G
-----Original Message-----
From:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of
'DeBusk Thomas L.' tleed@xxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, June 18,
2014 11:55 AM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Power
Window Wars
A little while ago, the three little nylon gear plugs in the
front passenger
window motor in my Hurst vaporized. Not to worry. I just
replaced the ones
in the driver's side last summer, so with the benefit of
experience, I
figured the passenger's side would be a breeze. And since
Advance Auto sells
the exact parts I needed as "Window Regulator Gear Plugs",
Item #74410 (for
late-model FORDS!), I knew exactly what I needed.
If
only life could be so easy.
Of course I knew the mechanism is
spring-loaded. But a client called me on
the phone while I was working.
Nearly took my fingers off when the clock
spring let go! (Focus,
focus.)
Now if someone wants to chime in with a safe, foolproof way to
unload the
spring pressure, then I'm all ears, but that's not my most
pressing
question.
After I got finished re-installing at midnight last
night, the window was
very sluggish going up. Just about refused. Well, I had
the car on the
battery charger intermittently through the winter, and I
hadn't driven it
yet this summer because the window wouldn't go up. But the
battery was low
when I started the window work a few days ago, so I put the
charger on it. I
have a super-duper modern charger that tells me the battery
percentage and
volts currently in the battery. After charging and before
starting on the
window, it was at 100% charge. But by the time I was ready to
raise the
window, the door had been open for a couple of hours, and the dome
light had
been draining the battery. I had taken the charger off the battery
when I
started working on the window, and it now showed only 80% charge when
I
hooked it back up.
After only 15-20 minutes, the charger showed 95%
charge, which is a little
odd, because it shouldn't charge that fast if you
have 80%. But the window
worked significantly better. In fact, both front
windows had been
super-sluggish when the charger read 80%, but both worked OK
when it was
reading 95%.
So here's my question. Is there a "proper"
amount of tension on the clock
spring when you re-install it? I basically
just mounted the center on the
split pin and then wound the arm around to the
post it engages. Considering
how much tension is there, I was just happy to
get it installed. I wasn't
really thinking about putting extra tension on it.
But if I understand it's
purpose correctly, it's there to support the weight
of the window; the motor
just moves the window. What I'm asking is how much
of the weight of the
window is the spring supposed to carry? A lot? Or just a
little? Is it
possible to put more tension on it by installing it a certain
way, or by
putting it in a vice and mechanically leveraging the arm? Is that
either
possible, desirable, or necessary?
Given my scenario, I'm
trying to figure out whether I need to go back into
both doors and "tighten
up" the springs, however you might do that, because
they're not "carrying
their weight" sufficiently, or am I dealing with a
weak battery that's trying
to tell me it's time to replace it?
Thomas
DeBusk
------------------------------------
Posted by: "DeBusk Thomas
L." <tleed@xxxxxxxx>
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