RE: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating
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RE: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating





Bob and others interested,
 
I've not personally had or even witnessed the problem you describe with an electronic regulator in place, but with the mechanical ones it's a common malfunction---even normal to a small extent.  One thing that I've not yet seen addressed here regards electrical accessories that are connected to a 12 volt source that does not draw through the ammeter circuit.  The only such device I can think of at the moment is the horn(s).  The horn relay usually get voltage from an ammeter connected circuit, but the horns do not.  What you can observe in some cases is that when you toot the horn with the engine running (alternator producing) the ammeter will show a charge rather than either a discharge or remain near neutral.  The reason for that is the regulator calls for more current from the alternator to feed the horn and that current must pass through the ammeter possibly make you think the battery might be getting an extra charge.
 
The point I'm making is not that the horns are a problem, but consider the possibility of some other device with only an intermittent demand which might be connected to a non-ammeter circuit.  With such a connection a small electrical demand would cause some ammeter movement without causing a noticeable light flicker.

----------Marshall Goodknight
 
 

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "'Bob Jasinski' rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "'tomlin'" <tomlin@xxxxxxxxx>, "'Chrysler 300 club'" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2015 10:18:04 -0700

 

Tim,

 

I agree, it is a challenging problem.  Going up to Reno last week, at night, low beam on, the ammeter was swinging so fast, full arc left to right, that at some point the needle was hard to see because it was a blur. Recognizing that replacing the mechanical regulator with a solid state unit does help some folks with the problem, that alone is not the fix for everyone.  I know because I have had some encouragement when I switched to a solid state regulator but the problem always comes back.  I've tried at least 3 mechanical regulators and now 3 solid state units, the current one purchased from John Hertog before his passing.  Still have another non-stock looking solid state unit in the box. I've also checked my connections many times, no corrosion or loose fittings.  Original alternator has been rebuilt to stock specs and removed and returned to rebuilder for testing only to have it handed back to me stating there is no problem as it checks out on their machine. I Googled the problem yesterday, and most responses lead to the Imperial website with members posting responses on the issue.  Some suggest to put a shunt wire across the ammeter to damp the fluctuations.  One writer says 18 gauge the other says 14 gauge.   The thinking behind the jumper is to provide an additional current path to reduce the load through the ammeter and dampen the needle movement.  Sounds like a band aid to me.  Others say to look for bad grounds.  I'm going to spend some time looking at the wiring real close, but it won't be the first time I've tried to resolve "the mystery of the bouncing needle"

 

Bob J

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'tomlin' tomlin@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 7:00 PM
To: Chrysler 300 club
Subject: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating

 

 

Folks,

  I have read with great interest the various e-mails on the above subject.  This has been discussed years previously, without successfully resolving the issue, I think.

  I have a 300-K on hand, plus a 1968 New Yorker.  Previously had another 300-K.  Only the latter did not “blinkâ€? its headlights as it went down the highway!  Naturally the pulsing ammeter accompanied the blinking.  The one that did not blink/pulse had a mechanical voltage regulator (I believe original Chrysler manufacture!).  The other two now have the electronic version (IF I remember correctly these were available through our club member who is now gone) which helps but does not eliminate the issue.  Both only pulse the ammeter when the headlights are “onâ€?.  High beams make the situation worse on the 1964, but tend to smooth out the blinking/pulsing on the 1968.  Both have had a special ground wire run from the voltage regulator case to the bulk head ground where the ground wire from the engine goes to the chassis.  NO improvement.

  Now of the two, I have had the 1968 since my Granddad died and left it for me in 1971.  For MANY years it was OK.  Then the ammeter failed and I replaced it (another story about a parts man who felt nothing could fail in the ammeter).  Still no issue with pulsing until the ALTERNATOR was replaced (Chrysler Corp rebuilt unit, not a bargain parts store piece)!  Once that happened, I had the pulsing at the ammeter under most driving conditions.  The electronic voltage regulator tended to reduce that except when I am driving with low beams on.  I went through quite a few mechanical and one other electronic voltage regulators trying to “fixâ€? the problem.

  I am not an electronics engineer.  I DO have an opinion!  I am of the opinion the three diodes are not fully functioning correctly on the alternator and a less than smooth current is produced (three phased currents to look like a smooth 13 volt current or there abouts).  I do not know anyone that has the ability/equipment/knowledge to check this.  I should think a good EE with an oscilloscope could do so.  By no means is it unique.  My friend, Galen Wollbrink, has it with his several old Chryslers.  Almost looks like these pulsing headlights on motorcycles these days.

  Anyone with a good solution would surely be welcome to solve this issue!  Most of what I read and what I have tried only address accomodating and lessening the issue, not really fixing it.

Thank you for hearing yet another “opinion�!

Tim Tomlinson

 

 



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Posted by: "mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx" <mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx>


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