RE: [Chrysler300] http://www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/how-to-
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

RE: [Chrysler300] http://www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/how-to-rebuild-a-ball-and-trunnion-drive-shaft-008786/





That is critically important…and Don’s point about the pin is beyond critical .

 

What have we all seen on these? ??? Sharing experience helps, or we end up solving the same problems independently.

I personally have never seen the pin damaged , (lucky?) could see how that can happen though. ----but I have seen the outer housing appearing “dented” and a wear spot longitudinally where it rides all the time, causing side to side looseness in just one place (only) of long travel. Outer part of “bearing “ too. That needs a new outer housing to fix,--really no way to repair practically,  and tight fit of shims to avoid shaking / vibrations 60-70 mph - area , Drives you crazy. Frankly I hate these things ..It is a very bad design from day one, and not just the rubber boot aspect. OK for flatties 80hp six in 1930’s at 50 mph, where they came from, and 50 k miles. Past 4-5 letter cars I have done have gotten real U joints  . Winnebago uses,  and ?Spicer makes a mount for a regular big U joint that does bolt right onto on our 4 brake housing bolts, I am sorry do  not have part# here. There are two sizes of bolt patterns(careful!). Then you make a driveshaft with slide spine in it. Can buy the end of slide, that the  front U joint half is in. Other half of slide welds to old shaft end by specialist. BIG Problem gone forever .Winnebago apparently used the 727 (like a 62) with e brake on tail into ?70’s- 80’s . Found this by accident, through friend of JY (Pierre) who works on campers, as we were trying to make same kind of thing  from steel billet  . Even when you really try to get it all perfect, stock, at least half the time there is vibration..more or less. Frustrating, gets into experts talking about shaft out of balance etc,.The problem is probably not balance, it is the driveshaft is not ending up in the center of bolt  pattern, net, by a tiny amount. Or moving side to side . If you do have to change the pin, it has to be centered side to side to like .00001, in a press, and then after, you get into the shims, so all is on center.  . Maybe if you have a few days and a machine shop. But it is I original 100%! COMPLETE With original vibration.

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Keith Boonstra kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 11:02 AM
To: dverity@xxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: David Schwandt; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Club
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] http://www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/how-to-rebuild-a-ball-and-trunnion-drive-shaft-008786/

 




I saw him take the the shims off the pin after he removed the bearings, but did he ever put them back on before installing the new bearings? I don't think he does so on the video.

 

Keith Boonstra

-

 

On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 10:11 AM, dverity@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

He didn’t rebuild the joint as that would require the pin to be pressed out. I think changing the boot is easier without the coat hangers too. Once you get the boot stuffed in the housing, it’s pretty easy to get it to slide through after that.

Don

 






__._,_.___

Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or
go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang





__,_._,___


Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network Archive Sitemap