RE: [Chrysler300] Old Mopar overheating
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RE: [Chrysler300] Old Mopar overheating



Hi, Jack!! .. a real radiator shop has a special thing that uses suddenly
released compressed air and water mix to really blast it. It will get out
that stuff. People think back flush is running a hose backwards,..that does
essentially nothing.

I had a Rambler wagon (!) 59 aluminum(!!)  six, given to me for free, about
62, (front seat turns to bed..ideal thing, at the time). The engine had
wrong for aluminum antifreeze or none in it at the time, before me,  and
long stringy stuff looked just like 6" pieces of kite string came out of
block for 10 000 miles , clogging radiator. Over and over. 100 miles at 60
=clogged. Around the city, a month. I learned lot about backflush in 1962-3.
A hose did nothing . 

But this thing looks like a big gun, it attaches to full width of bottom
hose inlet and  a huge gush comes out of top fitting and cap hole when you
pull trigger. . You fill with water maybe then hit with compressed air.
Mouse stuff is nothing compared with that string stuff. 5-6 times ,it was OK
. you only need once!!

I had used all those boil-out cans, "oxy something? Acid" etc etc ----did
nothing.  Not sure I agree w "brittle brass" but maybe they know more than I
do. Have to be smart with this, ?old radiator = start slow ..It was done
with radiator in place, but if out of car ought to be really good if laid
flat...  cap off , upper open 

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of 'Jack Boyle' jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:26 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Old Mopar overheating

I will admit this is not a 300 only problem but it is related to my 1946
Chrysler straight 8 overheating. After much diagnosis and confirming the
water pump, t-stat, water distributing tube and hoses are in proper working
order I finally was able to borrow a small video probe and confirm the
problem in the upper tank of the radiator. BTW, There is a large baffle that
prevents viewing any portion of the top header without the camera.

 

Years ago while the car was in the assembly process some mice secretly made
a nest in the upper tank. No amount of back flushing will dislodge all of
the blocked tubes (verified with the camera). This radiator was in the car
for 2 years and the result was dislodging of some of the material but major
overheating (obviously). The car is now not even drivable for more than 5
minutes.

 

No radiator shop in Kansas City (even the OLD) ones will take the tanks off
this radiator and clean it - they say the tank to header hem will be brittle
and not survive reassembly. I am left with a re-core (just to clean lint out
of the upper tank?!?) at an estimate from two sources at $7,000 (that is not
a typo). The tanks/headers are not flat and the radiator is sort of an
octagon shape. I have considered just replacing the radiator with a modern
custom radiator but this is an AACA Grand National car and it seems a crime
on several levels.

 

This brings me my question. Is there a chemist out there that can offer an
acidic or caustic product that might dissolve the fluffy lint like material
and NOT harm the brass, solder, etc? I know from chemistry class that there
is something out there that will dissolve the organic lint and leave the
metal clean and bright.  I do have two trashed radiators available for
product testing.

 

I know there used to some cooling system cleaning products but the
environmental issues seems to have eliminated most of the old products.

 

Any suggested ideas are appreciated.

 

.Jack

 

 

Jack Boyle

(913) 544 4650

 

Enjoying the same C-300 since 1967

IMG_0623 small

 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: "Jack Boyle" <jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx>
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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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