Years ago, I purchased a fuel sender unit for my F from a company in
MA. I did a dry trial run outside the tank and the reading was nowhere
close to what it should have been. I drew a "to scale" sketch of the cross
section of the tank where the sender unit is mounted on the tank. I was
able to bend the sender unit rod so that it read Empty with the float at
the bottom level and full at the top level. I now feel comfortable when
driving that my gauge is reasonably accurate.
Bell canyon, CA
In a message dated 4/18/2016 8:00:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
earlier, you can get those floats at Ford dealer. Nice, real brass ones.
Have used on Mopar and Studebakers (cork!!) . I only bring it up again
as I went crazy for 3 months looking for those, not a whole sender.
someone should tell Van’s or put up on site, that the units commonly sold are
not calibrated right. Drives you crazy. They are OK when checked at full
(about 10 ohms) and E , about 90 , but gauge reads just above E when are
just below half , rather suddenly ; I have to leave a post it on my gas gauges
in different cars because of this. Last 150 miles is dicey, yet at first
if you go in with it near E it only takes 10-12 gallons. This on 3 cars now,
so not a fluke of car. So you start driving bit on E, ----then you run
out!!!! Happened on left lane in Harrisburg PA big interchange at
80 mph , with a bunch of Hell’s Angels bike guys off my right rear tail fin.
Not pretty. Try to pull over to right coasting….
little brass tank fails , but then it usually sinks, stays on E. but as
long as resistance wire winding is intact, about 90 ohms , even with arm down
on rest , then you can fluff it up. I threw them out, mistake . Do not
increase tension on the little contact, which seems to be too light in it’s
touch, as then it tears up the resistance wire .Ask me how I know . A
day to get in and out. Does not need “improving” . That is an end of life mode
too, wire breaks on winding from wear. But generally filled with crud and rust
…clean and new float tank should be good , if resistor wire not
might measure it ( real one) at 4-5 places record ohms, plot curve. ;
have not done that.
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of dan300f@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2016
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Fuel gauge
My first thought is
that your float needs to be replaced. If it is copper then it perhaps
has sprung a leak. If it is composite, it may be
L emerged from winter storage flawlessly. It started, moved, turned,
and stopped at my command. (It did a lot better than many people—but I
it went down for the winter there was gas in it—probably 7 or 8 gallons, and
the fuel gauge registered very low. When it started this spring the
fuel gauge was LTWS (lower than whale s—t). First drive was to
the gas station to get some puny 91 corn oil laced fuel. I bought 7 gallons,
and the fuel gauge went to 1/4 tank. The gas station is about 2 miles north.
I went to cruise-in Friday evening, and drove about 7 miles. the gauge
started that trip below 1/4, and I parked at cruise-in “nose tilted up” so
gauge would naturally read less. When I started the car to come home,
it read LTWS, and did not improve when I stopped or caused gas to move to
the front of the tank. There are no leaks or drips, and I have a hard
time believing I am getting 1 or <1 MPG.
experience last summer was a full tank registered full, and then it went to
zero almost immediately from 1/2. When I filled it, it often would
fill at 12 or 13 gallons—so the zero reading was really about
my fuel reporting system broken at the sending unit or in the electrics in
the dashboard? Current sending unit is a Van’s purchased unit, 3 years
old. The original unit is rebuilt, and will be installed when there
really is very little gas in the tank, but if the problem is up front, then
I better gear up for removing seat and knee panel and instrument
Posted by: DAN300F@xxxxxxx
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