Neutral safety switch comes to mind . If it happens again you can test that single wire to ground w light or voltmeter while someone holds key . Should be zero . If you see 12 at attempted crank in park or neutral ( do not move that trans selector yet ) you found it . Check trans connection too , they get beat up . Another way is try again during failure after shifting to park or d and r and back to N . Bumping it like that can fix it temporarily . Switch itself seldom bad but adjustment critcal . See trans info in book .
Also how did you know what terminals to jump ? Can damage stuff doing that -- unless you know . From batt to heavy start wire to solinoid ok . Some of others inc neutral switch are at ground . You can destroy neutral switch if you put 12 on that wire. . 12 on crank term to relay ok if you pull wire off . Tests the start relay . They tend to be yes or no deal . Check all wires at relay ..loose on the tab female stake on can do that too . Also common .
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 19, 2016, at 5:49 PM, cv300g@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or
go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit
For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang