RE: [Chrysler300] 300K wiring diagram
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RE: [Chrysler300] 300K wiring diagram





Is the 8.4V reading at the end of the disconnected wire or somehow picked off with the connector engaged and the system trying to energize the clutch?  I have seen fuse box connections pretty corroded so you might pull the ACC fuse and inspect its connections.  The other test is to see if you get the same Voltage at MAX COOL as at FR COOL.  Different readings might diagnose the problem to be in the HVAC control panel.  Hard jamming or even very gentle pressing the push buttons might help find a sweet spot on the clutch switch buried inside that white plastic box on back of the HVAC control panel.  

 

As previously noted, the blue wire under the hood may have been damaged with loss of copper continuity or with a little intermittent ground at a worn place in the insulation.  Wires under the hood and lying on top of the engine can get a little crispy after 50+ years.  I note that at some point the wire from the firewall to the clutch connector on our Konv has been replaced.

 

I think you are homing in on the problem.

 

Rich Barber

Brentwood, CA (Heading up to Folsom tomorrow for Roger Selby services.  Another one of the good guys gone.)

 

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 10:18 AM
To: 'Hugh Baldus' <hugh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Rich Barber' <c300@xxxxxxx>; 'Bob Merritt' <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Chrysler 300 List' <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 'John & Marilyn Holst' <jholst@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300K wiring diagram

 

 

Don't understand how it can be 8.4 volts, but EE hat on, = obviously , resistance / burning in switch, but might be partially shorted clutch coil (internally ) drawing a larger current than normal causing large drop, high current and low magnetic force . stock Feed Wire might get warm? Check amp draw during the 8v situation, and see if you can find spec on clutch coil ohms. I expect 2-3 A is normal(guess),so 4-6 or more ohms? ; it might still work via jumper as shorter heavy(?) wire forces voltage to say high anyway under heavy draw . Turn to turn intermittent shorts happen. Turns to case too.

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Hugh Baldus hugh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 11:47 AM
To: Rich Barber; 'Bob Merritt'; 'Chrysler 300 List'
Cc: 'John & Marilyn Holst'
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300K wiring diagram

The issue is the clutch: Blue wire only outputs 8.4v and the compressor won't engage off that low of voltage. The pressure's are within the window for actuation. Appreciate the input- Hugh Baldus 260.424.2366 From: Rich Barber [mailto:c300@xxxxxxx] Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 5:35 PM To: 'Bob Merritt'; Hugh Baldus; 'Chrysler 300 List' Cc: 'John & Marilyn Holst' Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300K wiring diagram Hugh: Like Lt. Columbo, I have just one more point. It appears the only other device fed from the ACC terminal is the parking brake light. If it comes on when the parking brake is set and the ignition switch is in RUN or ACC position, the fuse must be good. If not, maybe the fuse or bulb but is some evidence that fuse may have blown. The wire from the firewall grommet to the A/C clutch may have rubbed through, shorted out and blown the fuse. Lt. Barber From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 2:21 PM To: 'Bob Merritt' <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Hugh Baldus' <hugh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Chrysler 300 List' <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Cc: John & Marilyn Holst <jholst@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300K wiring diagram Hugh: The basic factory wiring diagram is not too clear on the a/c circuits but the A/C circuitry is better displayed on page 24-4 at: http://www.jholst.net/64-service-manual/air-conditioning.pdf . The blower is fed from the fuse labeled HEAT A/C. The A/C compressor clutch is fed from the fused circuit labeled ACC on the fuse block. Actuation of any HVAC control panel push button other than OFF will energize the blower circuit with speed determined by pushing or pulling on the combination temperature control lever/blower speed controller. If either the MAX COOL or FR COOL button is pushed in, +12V is sent to the clutch. There is no low-pressure cutoff switch. The electrical switching of the blower speeds and clutch activation are controlled by the push buttons and involve sliding plates that were lightly lubed 50 years ago and may not fully engage unless pushed in hard. To test the clutch portion of the switch, disconnect the wire to the clutch near it and measure Voltage from its terminal to ground. With the key in RUN or ACC position, pushing in either the MAX COOL or FR COOL buttons should provide the needed +12V at the connector near the compressor. The light blue wire from the dash switch to the clutch does not pass through the bulkhead connector but passes through the firewall at a separate location along with wires to the blower speed resistor on the firewall. The light blue wire then winds its way across the engine to the compressor clutch connector. Best wishes on getting you’re A/C working. We would need it here in central California today. BTW, “INC” club webmaster John Holst is recovering from a fall which broke his hip. Four Ti lag bolts were required to put Humpty Holst back together again. He has just entered another hospital for continuing care so he is out of pocket for a while. His personal website has the parts and service manuals for all letter cars plus a plethora of other information—much of it specific to the ‘64K. http://www.jholst.net Click on “Chrysler 300 Resources”. John farms in north-central Iowa and drives a white 360 HP 300K coupe his father bought new in Des Moines (with A/C & Auto Pilot). Best wishes to John for a full and speedy recovery. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Bob Merritt' bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> [Chrysler300] Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 10:28 AM To: Hugh Baldus <hugh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:hugh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>>; Chrysler 300 List <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300K wiring diagram John Holt's site is http://www.jholst.net/300resource/ He has the service manuals 1955-1965 and includes the wiring diagrams at http://www.jholst.net/wiring/wiring.php ------ Original Message ------ From: "Hugh Baldus hugh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:hugh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> To: "yahoogroups" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> Sent: 6/22/2016 1:12:37 PM Subject: [Chrysler300] 300K wiring diagram Good Afternoon, Can anyone advise where to find the wiring diagram for a 300K online, if such exists? Tracking a failure between A/C dash controls and the unit, it works when powered directly, but doesn’t spin when connected to dash lead. Worked one day, not the next. Thanks- Hugh Baldus 260.424.2366

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Posted by: Hugh Baldus <Hugh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>


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