Re: [Chrysler300] 300 Disc Brake Conversion Update
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Re: [Chrysler300] 300 Disc Brake Conversion Update



 blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; }  Hi John,
This does not happen in a daily driver only on a track under extreme curbing conditions. It is not specific to any one manufacturer. 
The fix on the track seems to be pumping the brakes or just touching the brake lightly as to "make the stop light go on."
Tony

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On Wednesday, August 31, 2016, 3:37 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

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I do understand the mechanism, but it still means no brakes, randomly . I think that is a big , in fact huge factor for a daily driver? To me it sure is. Cars we all drive , we do not need to worry about this by design. Whatever the correction is? I think that is right. So it is a fault? Part of evaluation?  Single puck must knockback too, maybe MC has enough volume to overcome the lost motion in puck? It must. 

  

Must also get into mix and match of masters , stroke volume, and # of pucks ….?

  

From: Tony Rinaldi [mailto:awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 2:37 PM
To: John Grady; 'Chrysler 300 Club'
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300 Disc Brake Conversion Update

  

Hi John,

  

"knockback" can happen to any disc brake set up on a track. See the following tech video on causes and correcting it while driving. 

  

Brake Knockback / knockback 

  

| 
| 
  


| 

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 |
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| 

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Brake Knockback / knockback

By Milspec Driving

This video is about brake knockback or pad knockback.
 |  |

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 |


  

If the link does not work, go to YouTube.com and search for "brake knockback Milspec Driving 2014"

  

I am using standard "F" booster & dual bowl master cylinder with proportioning valve and mechanical brake light switch. 

  

Taking a trip to Charlotte Motor Speedway Auto Fair from Philly later in Sept. Will let you know how well the brakes work. 

  

Tony


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Wednesday, August 31, 2016, 2:16 PM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


  

Thanks Tony—how does it work? What do you think? 

 

Used the F booster? Dual master? 

Can wait till you do report, just wondering about results. One of the big mags put wildwood kit on a dart or something,  almost crashed late in test , as they are apparently subject to ‘knock back” ---what they called it --when rotors move on spindles or with axles on corner loading, the pucks get moved back and so many pucks and so much volume to fill then , that the master could not fill it on one stroke after driving hard at a track.  Big surprise, no brakes,  pedal to floor. Was working great before that . Lots of verbiage all around about that ---from all sides--- as you can imagine, but article left it unresolved, “working on it” . You experience any of that?  It gave me pause. 

Thank you for sorting this out, great data, 

 

John

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Tony Rinaldi awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 1:19 PM
To: Chrysler 300 Club
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 Disc Brake Conversion Update

 





Hi to all,

 

We have successfully installed Wilwood Disc Brake upgrades on my 300-F Convertible.

 

The following are the disc brake upgrades now available for our 300s:

 

|  |  | 
AAJ Brakes
 | 
SS Brakes
 | 
Magnum Force/Wilwood
 | 
Magnum Force/Wilwood
 |
| 
Front
 | 
Name/Number
 | 
Front Brake Kit
 | 
A154-4
 | 
Z-140-14227
 |  |
|  | 
Caliper
 | 
1 Piston
 | 
4 Piston
 | 
4 Piston
 |  |
|  | 
Rotor
 | 
11"
 | 
11 1/4" X .08"
 | 
11 3/4" X 1 1/4"
 |  |
|  | 
Rotor Slotted & Drilled?
 | 
No
 | 
Yes
 | 
Yes
 |  |
|  | 
Wheel Size
 | 
14" Wheel
 | 
14" Wheel
 | 
14" Wheel
 |  |
|  |  |  |  |  |  |
| 
Rear
 | 
Name/Number
 | 
Rear Brake Kit
 | 
A155-2
 | 
140-11386-D
 | 
140-10767-D
 |
|  | 
Caliper
 | 
1 Piston
 | 
1 Piston
 | 
4 Piston
 | 
4 Piston
 |
|  | 
Rotor
 | 
11"
 | 
10.5" X .93"
 | 
11" X 0.81"
 | 
12.9" X 0.81"
 |
|  | 
Parking Brake
 | 
No
 | 
Yes
 | 
Yes
 | 
Yes
 |
|  | 
Rotor Slotted & Drilled?
 | 
No
 | 
Yes
 | 
Yes
 | 
Yes
 |
|  | 
Wheel Size
 | 
14" Wheel
 | 
14" Wheel
 | 
14" Wheel
 | 
15" Wheel
 |


 

Since my car has 15” wheels that accept 14” standard hubcaps we were able to use the larger rear kit with 12.9” rotors (140-10767-D). For 14” wheels there is a smaller kit with 11” rotors (140-11386-D).

 

For 1962 and earlier 8 3/4” rears, the bolt pattern of the backing plate must be redrilled to match. 1963 and later 8 3/4” rear flanges with flattened top fit the bolt pattern supplied.

 

Wilwood requires new green bearings to be pressed on to the rear axles. They supply clips to secure the bearings.

 

Both Wilwood rear kits have emergency brakes. If you still have the e-brake on the end of the tranny, you do not have to use the Wilwood set-up. If you want to upgrade, you can connect to them. Requires Lokar front universal kit with special order longer cable and Willwood rear e-brake cable kit.

The e-brake has brake linings that engage the inside of the rotor hat.

 

Front Wilwood kits require Wilwood front brake lines with banjo fittings.

 

Will be writing up a tech article with photos in the near future. Will post the link.

 

Tony Rinaldi








 



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Posted by: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>
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