[Chrysler300] 1964 300K A/C switch rebuild.
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[Chrysler300] 1964 300K A/C switch rebuild.

Testimony:  Keith at Brady Research received, repaired, upgraded and shipped the heater control switch from our 1964 Chrysler 300K convertible with factory A/C back in just a few days.  The plastic box was resealed nicely with a few drops of clear epoxy, the buttons now push-pull smoothly and I am happy as a clam with price and service.  While the switch was off and out, I was able to further disassemble the switch and polish up the chrome on the buttons.   I have attached six photos of the re-assembled switch for those able to receive them.  Anyone else curious?  Let me know and I will send the pix to you.  Interesting point:  The fan is powered from one of the fuses and the A/C compressor from another.  Repeating information from another:  Pressing the FR COOL button all the way in will energize the A/C compressor and set the heater box doors for fresh air intake.  By pulling this button back, the A/C compressor will shut off but leave the “doors” open for fresh air.


Thanks, John & Keith—and a Merry Christmas to all.


Rich Barber

Brentwood, CA



From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 6:45 AM
To: Harry Torgeson <torg66@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Simons Keith <ksimons@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] wanted pw motor assembly for 1962 chrysler



Hi Harry ,if switch hard to push and other buttons do not come back out , interlock cams are worn . Not helping you at all. Never ever compressed air . Will blow up actuators. There is a thing called mity vac at Napa to test actuators etc .it makes and reads vacuum .  I have not had failures at actuators although seals  at rod movement at can exit, can dry out -- some silicon ignition grease on rod might help ( oil might hurt it). Get a mighty vac and 3 feet of hose if you want to test . Slight leak ok on rod side .----- If all are not working ( ? Your case?)first  follow main vacuum feed hose off switch to engine

 Manifold fitting . Often cracked burned cut or hurt during engine work  . Fix that . Also check all hoses are on the actuators. A hose off will prevent vacuum . These are actually pretty good setups.. do not despair.! Instructions to remove switch in FSM. Send it white block we can put in new cams . Pull off vacuum plug straight back do not wiggle . Or pry very evenly . Wiggling breaks off tiny nylon tubes on back . Under 100 if unbroken nipples. Someone might have broken them and hid it by putting plug back on = cause of this . We can fix but a charge per nipple . More than 3 better to find new switch . Can help there too , we rebuild scrap ones ( bad cams , but good nipples) occasionally. 

See also posting by JY Chouinard on club site about what each hose actuator does. 

Hope this helps.. is it a ram k ? 

Contact Keith (copied ) for setting up doing it 
Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 13, 2016, at 1:30 AM, Harry Torgeson <torg66@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:torg66@xxxxxxxxx> > wrote:

Hi John, I'm a member of both clubs, saw your ad and video, I have a recently purchase 1964 300K convert, had lots of work done to make it drive, the controls, heater, and defroster does not work but AC does work, though week, just had new old hoses installed, could it be the vacuum servos or hoses or the the hard to push button controls, mine? would like to make them work without tearing everything apart, should I send you the vacuum dash unit to be rebuilt first, or should I test with compressed air first in the dash if possible? Let me know your address if needed and how to remove controls from dash, do the servo vacuum units fail? old car? I have limited mechanical ability even though I have restored a frame off MGA.

Thanks for your help, Harry


On Mon, Dec 12, 2016 at 11:30 AM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > wrote:


We made the aluminum bronze gears here , Fern, (CNC mill, time consuming, one tooth at a time, blank is cut from big bar.) as I had this problem with many F ----and found other used gears from other cars , which then broke too. As the nylon ages in oil, I think it becomes brittle. You will not find a “new one”—only one from another car, may be worse than yours and a lot of work to change that. I did find a few nylon gears loose in Mopar boxes way back, so problem goes way back ,and they apparently tore down to that level in dealerships, given the available service part. . All that being said, the system must not be binding.. it should go up and down at about same speed everywhere ..check all the obvious stuff tracks etc alignment. If it jams it (can) snaps gears. If you hold button down. 

If spinning and trying to lift, almost for sure it is a broken nylon main gear inside box. Especially if it keeps spinning but window not moving, or going bump bump bump . 

I think Jamie Hyde posted something elaborate on the club site about rebuilding the box with our gears,…he had a lot of pictures, worth 10,000 words here. Look for that or contact him, or Bob Merritt may know The motors and gear boxes may differ we hear that some have non removable covers over the gears—or something. Never have seen one. Possibly post 61. The one we work with is the same as Jamie’s and seems most common-- used for all 60 -61, later too . .. for sure 60-61 maybe before and after.---why ad says “we need to see your old gearbox” . I think three, about 8 or 10 / 32 screws hold gear cover on. Also the motors are not the gearbox..two items joined together by rubber coupling, so do not know about interpreting part numbers. And lift assy. Might be literally motors . there were many motors--- the longer ones are more powerful, may have been used in back (more of a fight) . Long ones might not fit everywhere. later motors ? 63-64 seem to fit; late ones are often coated in black rubber like stuff ---or may be service motors. I do not know this stuff re : numbers at all, just what we see. To try motor solidly ground frame of it to – battery , put + on one wire it goes up, other wire it goes down .Do not put 12v on the two wires!!!! Burns up field. Much later say 65 up might be different wiring. 

You can remove door panel and look ; or find one to rebuild .We may have a gearbox here we can rebuild for you and sell it to you , w a motor..we can try motor but do not know 100% about that unless rebuilt too. ( we do not generally do that—and yours sounds ok too) But usually if they spin, on test , as yours does and ours too, they are ok. Big issue is water getting in. Rust at bottom seam of motor case indicates problem .Drop of oil (only one drop at top and into .060 hole you drill in bottom center helps. ….too much oil ruins brushes. 

I will ask Keith to get back to you on a unit that ought to fit 62, and cost, but most likely came from a 60-61. With new gear in it. If with panel off you get a picture, good. Check Jamie pictures too..Yours will most likely be the same part. Sometimes the output pinion wears in the case..we have to fix that with an added bushing in machine shop too.

You can proceed several ways, including fixing yours. If cover comes off. Turnaround less than week typically. 



From: Fern Rivard [mailto:crc@xxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:crc@xxxxxxxxxxxx> ] 
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2016 12:06 PM
To: John Grady
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] wanted pw motor assembly for 1962 chrysler
Importance: High

Hi John: When I try to roll the window back up, it makes a racket like something is slipping so to get it to go back up I have to manually help it. I have not removed the door panel yet as I want to get a complete good working unit before I take it apart. Now to complicate things, in 1962 they used two different manufacturers of power window motors with one type on say the drivers side and a different brand on the passenger side.

I was told by a club member that they used the same motors from at least 1960 to 1962 and that 1963 and 1964 would also work.

Who is the supplier of these repro nylon gears?


From: mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  

Sent: Monday, December 12, 2016 9:26 AM

To: 'Fern Rivard' <mailto:crc@xxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:crc@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > 

Cc: mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  ; 'Keith Simons' <mailto:ksimons@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:ksimons@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > 

Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] wanted pw motor assembly for 1962 chrysler

Is it the gear that is stripped or a bad motor? The nylon gears are trouble. It splits at bottom of a nylon tooth, then free wheels around steel hub. We can rebuild 60-61 for sure, 62 probably same, with bronze gear. The motor fails because rain water enters the bearing at the top , on the one with the motor top shaft up. …because that rain shield (black “umbrella” cup) that throws off the water gets hard and then shrinks loose on shaft. Or is missing. I think Jamie Hyde found that valve guide seals fix that, or glue old one to shaft with 360 weatherstrip cement ---but motor may be already wrecked..Either thing will happen again, (if not already happened ) on a replacement one from another car. . Heads up. 

I have taken to drilling .060 hole in center of bottom of lower bearing assembly ( can do without taking apart) lets you put a drop of oil in on bench but more important if water gets in it will leak out. It turns into a big ball of rust in there otherwise as the water puddles up in the bottom cover . Rusts badly, seizes brushes and shaft will not turn. Corrodes that circuit breaker/overload contact too. Trying to fix that issue almost always pops out the bronze ball held by spring fingers and riveted plate..pretty much done for then. 

If working on car generally, check that little cup if loose or not sealed put a band of weatherstrip adhesive or rtv there ; water loves little gaps or crevices it goes right through cup along shaft , through top bearing space and inside. .

Be very careful taking apart..that spring can get you bad. Almost got me first time , when you pull off gearbox, it will snap REALLY hard.. Drill quarter inch hole and bolt it steady , or if insurance paid up, vise grips 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> ] On Behalf Of 'Fern Rivard' crc@xxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:crc@xxxxxxxxxxxx>  [Chrysler300]
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2016 9:30 PM
To: Chrysler 300 List
Subject: [Chrysler300] wanted pw motor assembly for 1962 chrysler

Does anyone on the list have a good working power window motor c/w transmission to fit the passenger front door of a 1962 chrysler? What other years or model cars used the identical unit? Shipping would be to zip 83826 in Idaho.

Thanks from Fern in cold and snowy Cranbrook SE BC and Wishing You All the Very Best for the Holiday Season.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>

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