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Hi, George:


You ask what time it is.


Wiring diagrams may be found at John Holst’s site which has the service and parts manuals for all letter cars.  Electrical Section 8 of the 1964 Service Manual will be found at :

Body wiring (mainly rear wiring and interior lighting):  Page 8-95

Instrument Panel Wiring:  Pages 8- 98-99. This has all the circuits in and around the dash, including the fuse block.

Under-Hood Wiring:  Page 8-101.  Ignition, front lights, engine sensors, a/c compressor, starter, alternator, washer pump, regulator, horn relay, horns.


You will note that the underhood wiring and the instrument panel wiring are mostly connected via the all-important bulkhead connector.  The a/c compressor clutch and fan-speed resistor are fed through wiring separate from the bulkhead connector.  The bulkhead connector can be a weak link in the system if the little brass spades and sockets get corroded but I don’t think this is your problem area.  All power for lighting and accessories comes from the battery or alternator this connector and each circuit uses the same sized connectors as the windshield washer pump and horn relay.


The schematic diagram of the fuse block in the upper LH corner of Page 8-98 is backwards from the way you view it in the car.  An actual photo of the fuse block is shown on Page 8-68.  Power for the stop lights, trunk light and tail, park, indicator and dash lights flows into the fuse block from an always hot feed wire Q3 which is connected to the heavy black wire from the alternator-R6.  If the engine is off, power to wire R6 will flow through the ammeter from the battery feed—a heavy red wire A1.    Both A1 and R6 flow into the passenger compartment through the bulkhead connector.  The good news is that since you have headlights, you should also have power to the hot side of the fuse block at Q3.  Your having power to the map light confirms this, although its power flows through a different fuse.


Wire Q3 powers two fuses.  The second fuse from the left as you look at it under the dash (marked TAIL STOP DOME) powers wire M1 which, in turn, powers wire D3 to the stoplight switch, wire M1-A to the trunk light and wire L8 to terminal B2 on the headlight switch.  Terminal B2 on the headlight switch then powers tail, park, license-plate, dash, indicator and courtesy lights.  Power for the console, glove box and map lights comes from the third fuse from the left (marked CIGAR LTR) via wire X1.


I suspect you still have a blown fuse or corroded contacts at the second fuse from the left-a 15-Amp fuse in the TAIL STOP DOME slot.  You should have +12V on both sides of this fuse at all times if you have a charged battery in the car—engine running or not.  You should also have +12V at terminals B1 and B2 on the headlight switch at all times.  You mentioned that fuse had blown and the reason for that must be found if it keeps happening.  Check the wiring to the stop/tail and park/signal lights, stoplight switch, trunk light & front courtesy lights for bad sockets or shorted wiring.  Shorting of wiring from the LH kick panel back to the rear lights is also possible but unlikely.  The wire to the trunk light bulb is always hot with the switching being on the ground side.   Your Newport apparently has the optional light package for this light to be present—along with glove box, backup, parking brake warning and courtesy lights.


The 8-wire connector from the turn signal switch and column is important and does route F&R turn signal, brake, power from the steering column to the appropriate circuit.  It also transmits a ground signal from the horn button to the horn relay.  Power comes into this connector and the column from the stoplight switch and/or the flasher.  Power from the parking, tail and license plate lamps does not flow through this connector—all these come from the headlamp switch.  Since the flasher is powered unfused from the ACC terminal of the ignition switch, it seems likely that you should have F&R turn signals (but not park and tail lights) with the ignition switch in RUN or ACC position.  If you don’t have this function (ignition switch must be on), problems with the column wiring or connector may be suspect.  A loose or failed flasher would also prevent turn signals from working. 


Power for the top pump flows through a separate breaker behind the LH kick panel and should not be affected by your present power outage.


So, that’s how you build a watch.  Please let us know what you find.


Good luck.




From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of zzub@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2017 7:09 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx



I have a 64 Newport convt. and have lost all of the car lighting except the headlights, map and console lights. Car does not have rear armrest lights. The console is out of a "J" (letter car relevance) and lights are wired in to the courtesy light system. Car has no power windows or seats. Car starts and radio works. Heater/AC is not hooked up and fan is disconnected so I don't know if that system is affected. I have not checked to see if the top operates. I have no brake lights, tail lights, front and rear turn signals, parking lights, dash lights or turn signal indicators.

I found the brake light fuse blown and replaced it. This did not fix the problem but the fuse did not blow again. I have 12V at all fuses so no other blown fuses. I pulled the instrument cluster and had 12V at the ammeter. I replaced the headlight switch and that did not resolve the problem. Has anybody had this lighting problem? Any clues on what to check next?


George Ver Berkmoes


Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>

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