Re: [Chrysler300] 1964 300 convert
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Re: [Chrysler300] 1964 300 convert





Agree , just add that the chances of both switches going bad at once is very low . Motor stuck ! If rusty the overcurrent breaker mounted at brush  holder can stop the motor . I jump it out , solder heavy stranded wire to end cover , hole drilled in it it is there to prevent an idiot holding the switch with jammed motor but it corrodes and then no contact . While I do not know exact exchange , later motors ? 64 ? used with same switch are rubber coated and a lot better .  Also two lengths  of original motor , the longer one is more powerful . See also Jamie’s post on site about sealing shaft . If water runs in at nose motor is toast . If nose is up this is super critical . ( varies with where motor is in car )

I have been drilling .060 hole in center of bottom bearing shoot in some oil , but also allows water to get out if that end is down . They get destroyed inside by water.  

Sent from my iPhone

On 24 Dec 2017, at 3:25 pm, Ray Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

"Use it or lose it!"
Seems like the other 3 windows work as advertised, so it's a local problem to one window.
This is due to lack of use, either at the switch or the motor.
At the switch, it is corrosion, and needs cleaning. At the motor, it is corrosion, and needs cleaning.

First line of attack is to spray some electrical cleaner into the switch and repetitiously wiggle the toggle to try to clean the contacts. This may clean it a little.
Second option is to do the same with the rear switch and while using your fist, beat on the 1/4 panel upholstery
The idea here is to jolt the motor into moving a little off the spot it is resting and get some current, once operating, it will self clean...hopefully. If not and the panel is easily removed try lightly tapping on the motor with a hammer while working the switch. Watch your damn fingers when working on electric windows!

If neither work, take the switch apart and clean. Some will just pop out of the panel, if it is snapped in.
In either case, bend the tabs back on the back panel of the switch. Careful here, little spring and things live herein.
I use a big baking sheet with raised edges so no parts can roll off. Carefully clean the contacts, reassemble and you're good to go.

The hardest option is to remove the motor and clean the contacts.
When working on any electric window, remember it is spring loaded with a vengeance! Ask how I know..
Watch your damn fingers when working on electric windows!
After removing the trim panel, I drill a hole through the steel web panel and the arm and use a bolt to keep it from unloading when you remove the motor.
If you have the regulator out with the motor still attached, do the same or use big clamps to disable it from moving.
Dis-assemble the motor, and clean the commutator. Watch the brushes.
While out you can open the gearbox and repack with wheel bearing grease, NOT white lube which will harden.
Lube all  the pivot points on the regulator arm and the track.

One thing to remember here is that the motor works in 2 directions and there are only 2 wires.
The motor is not grounded, it runs one way or the other depending on which wire is supplying positive voltage.
The remaining wire is directed to ground at the switch.

Good luck and let us know how it turned out.
Ray

On Sun, Dec 24, 2017 at 12:39 PM, Harry Torgeson torg66@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
 

Hi everyone, my electric rear window switch at the drivers door will not work and switch in the back seat does not respond, any ideas?
Harry




--
Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?


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Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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