The points put forth by others are all good. I would add that the electrical basis for 1964 Chrysler power windows is that the RF, RR & LR windows all receive power to their individual switches from the breaker behind the LH kick panel. There are dual feeds to three of the switches. Either directly from the breaker or from the breaker to the master switch and then to the three individual switches. The LF window motor only receives power from the master switch.. The breaker receives power directly from the battery, is always “hot” and enables each power window to operate without the ignition switch being in “Run” or “Acc.” position. As noted, there is no ground wire in the power window system, the ground connection coming through the motors being mounted to steel panels.. See page 8-103 at: http://www.jholst.net/64-service-manual/electrical.pdf for the wiring diagram for power windows. The little insert indicates there are two different wire color possibilities at the LR door switch and motor—apparently on sedans or 4DHT’s.
A personal experience is that operating power windows, power seats or power top pump without the engine running can put a higher current load on the “hot” wire coming in from the battery through the bulkhead connector. Operating these motors with the engine off will pull the system/battery Voltage down and increase the Amperage load. The breaker will protect the system at 30 Amps but any deterioration of the connections at the bulkhead connector can lead to a high-resistance connection and enough heat to melt the bulkhead connector and even the connecting wiring at or below 30 Amps. Adding a fusible link in the engine compartment will not protect against a corroded and overloaded connection at the bulkhead. It can also smoke the Ammeter although it should be able to handle 30+ Amps.
I highly recommend not operating the power windows, seat(s) or top pump without the engine running to maintain system Voltage at or near 14 Volts.
Access to the rear window motors requires removal of both back-seat cushions, the armrest and then the flat panel. Look for a Track Sheet between springs and cushions while the cushions are out. Also as noted, use precautions to prevent the preloaded spring on the window regulator from injuring your fingers. If you should happen to hear the reluctant window motor running but the window not operating, you may find a gear stripped. I believe there is a fix for that, also.
Since the power window switches are always “hot”, I recommend removing the ground cable from the battery before starting work.
A very Merry Christmas to all—and a Happy 300’ly New Year,
Hi everyone, my electric rear window switch at the drivers door will not work and switch in the back seat does not respond, any ideas?
Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>
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