Re: [Chrysler300] Re:

I think another clue to corroded cable ends is that the lights will come on even tho the car wont crank.

On Sat, Jun 30, 2018 at 9:09 PM, Ray Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Unless you are showing a concours car, replace the old end of the + cable.

I found Gold plated replacement ends @ Auto Zone. Not sure if they still carry them in the store, maybe on line.
I have found them on eBay, also.
I have them on most of my vehicles. Never corrode, and the nice thing about them is they give you places to tap into the Battery power.
They have the clamp, of course, but holes with Allen screws to lock in wires. Cut off the old end, skin it back and install clean cable into the big hole. Run the Allen screws down to lock it. and you are in business again.
Also, there are several extra smaller holes with Allen screws for accessories. Handy for other circuits, if needed.
Ray

If you think that Mexico is only sending drug dealers and rapists,
but also worry that Mexicans are going to take your job...
What the heck do you do for a living?

On Sat, Jun 30, 2018 at 5:57 PM, Loren Nelson lorenhelenn@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

The corrosion at the battery connection is very likely the problem. Back in the 70's a friend ask to borrow my battery charger because his Corvette wouldn't start. When it still wouldn't start after charging I went to help him and everything went dead as soon as the starter engaged. After a few minutes the power came back on. After cleaning the white stuff off the battery terminals and connectors it started fine. I thought at the time I ought to analyze the white power and patient it as a solid state circuit breaker, but I didn't. Maybe that's why I'm not rich today.
Loren Nelson in N Georgia

On Sat, Jun 30, 2018 at 10:33 AM, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Thanks Bob and Jim ,
As obvious as it sounds , if a totally dead car, the battery power is not getting into the main power wire . So only one or two things , and one is very likely . That one is when car sits , a white corrosion dust forms in the battery terminal connection between the post and the clamp ring It expands and pushes them apart . This connection will not pass current , but when you try to start , the load of the starter solenoid causes It to break down and arc though the dust and car starts and runs . Repeat over and over . So remove and clean battery terminals , coat inside with Vaseline , tap down lightly with small hammer and clamp securely . Do not over tighten, easy to ruin clamp . After 5 years might need doing again .
Other thing is loose or burned main wire connection at + battery cable or, remotely under dash if ammeter with studs , or at bulkhead connector if you have one . Can bypass bulkhead connector main feed with #10 wire if done right ( solder, shrink sleeve , hole in firewall with protective grommet .
Last is poor battery ground or loose . Be sure ground jumper from engine to car body is there ..
let us know what you find !
John

Sent from my iPhone

On 29 Jun 2018, at 11:48 am, Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hello Jim;

Let me refer you to Doctor Electric --

John Grady. I bet he can help.

Bob

------ Original Message ------

From: "Jim Hofer" <jimhofer58@xxxxxxxxx>

To: bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: 6/29/2018 11:42:55 AM

Subject:

Hi I have a Chrysler 300 1969 convertible I have a question is when I drive the car it runs great and then after a little while the car stops running there is no power anywhere I mean no lights no key no nothing it sits for a while and then it'll start right up it's been fighting me all for about a year-and-a-half I can't figure it out can you help me.

Sent from my Verizon Motorola Smartphone

--
Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?