Thanks, John: I just checked the convertible top switch on our 300K—which is mounted on the lower dash due to the manual choke taking up the normal top-switch place. The switch had good firm feel up or down and I feel OK with it--but it is something else to watch out for. I have seen concerns here over the Ammeter bouncing back and forth. Since the power window/top/seat switches are all on the 30-Amp circuit breaker they become suspect. Another circuit breaker is on the windshield wiper switch and feeds the wiper motor, backup lights and washer pump. These also become suspect due to their being fed by a 5 or 6-Amp circuit breaker. There is also a 15-Amp circuit breaker integral to the light switch. The seats/windows/top breaker is fed directly from the battery so is always “hot”. The light switch breaker is also always “hot” and is fed from the alternator side of the Ammeter. Depending on whether the engine/alternator is running, current may flow either way through the Ammeter. Bad switches or other shorts can kill a battery and cause the harness and bulkhead connector to melt and burn. Thanks for the heads up. Could save a car. Loving this new server with pix. Thanks to Bob Merritt and the electronic media committee for making the transition smooth and prompt. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA (Beautimous weather) From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady Hi all, Following will be of interest to anybody with 57-67 (at least )mopar convertible , switches vary , possibly ---but the design to be described was common. I could see power window switches doing this too. What happened : While riding around , top down, I noticed ammeter fluctuating wildly to full charge for a full second or so then waving around and then normal ; I realized later in the drive, it was repeating about every 5-6 minutes. So I made mental note, damn mechanical regulator, (which I love!) must be burned points again , continued ride for 2-3 hours . Once back , Top would not go up , it moved about a foot and just stopped. Tried again a few minutes later and it went up (whew-rain coming) . =What is this now? = (*breaker was still hot….) . Pulled cable off battery fast. So got into switch, the switch was actually “stuck on” in down direction, so top was continuously trying to go down for 3 hours! But what happened was 20 amp circuit breaker would open after a second* (thank you god) cutting off power. Otherwise harness fire or burned up top motor , generator or regulator? . So it drew a lot of power (30-40 amps+ ) for a second , as motor was stalled dead at down, breaker opened , then generator replaced that power into battery , then back to normal till breaker closed again, repeat over and over . The reason it shows CHARGE, not discharge is top connects direct to battery + lead, power to top does not pass through ammeter. So when running top, it lowers the battery voltage, regulator turns on generator or alternator to “ full on”, shows a big real charge, cannot keep up with that short, but tries, so you see a big full scale charge. This raises hell with regulator and generator and top motor. May burn them out. So decided I needed a new switch ---went on Ebay , 220 each (!!!!) = Apparently a known issue . So two approaches,----- I found a 40A standard ‘toggle switch” SPDT and checked hole, bezel etc ; by drilling slightly more oversize, looked like it could be made to work. But non stock looking toggle bat handle. I had gotten that kind of switch before, for a 64 Mustang top motor upgrade (was manual top) from hydro E lectric , an online convert parts guy . Also had gotten 300 hoses from him. As I had the old switch out , decided nothing to lose vs. 200$. So got it open by carefully prying back 4 die cast fold ins with small sharp dike or wire cutter, small screwdriver . Once open pretty simple, V shaped contact , looked ok, it sits on the middle feed contact, moves by lever bat “end “ sliding on inside of vee ,--- but all was loose , copper vee just flopping around(?) why it fell down and “made” the close side of switch. It looked like missing a spring or something. Mystified ----how can this ever work? Then I Noticed slider part of toggle is made of nylon , looks “swaged” into metal bat that is the outside handle you move , but closer look , it is supposed to slide out . Inside the hollow nylon and up into hollow bat is a tiny spring like a ball point spring but maybe 1/16“ or 3/64” diameter . Repeat tiny. Nylon is supposed to slide out , pressed out by that spring. Which would hold vee straight in middle, and hold bat straight out. . Stuck in there now , by rock hard grease!!! Same affliction as wiper motor park cams, hardened grease on nylon parts . So cleaned out with WD 40 , put 30 W oil on it reassembled , works great, back into car. So, try the toggle on your top. If it is obviously real floppy in the middle, the spring may be getting stuck, or is stuck . When fixed it will self center pretty good –you can feel spring action . I had noticed mine was sort of sagging down, lot of play, but it worked, so what. Know better now! You might not be as lucky with harness etc. Plus I know the hard way, that on 57-59, if you push “down” switch while top is still latched, (or it “pushes itself”) the big aluminum main arm in back will snap right off at the pivot bolt……talk about unobtanium. Heads up! Stay safe , john -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/053901d6b181%2430041600%24900c4200%24%40ez2.net. |
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