Re: {Chrysler 300} Convertible top switch issue /hazard
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Convertible top switch issue /hazard



Thanks for info! Glad your Dart did not burn down!
JY


From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: November 2, 2020 10:55 PM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 'John Grady' <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Convertible top switch issue /hazard
 

Hi all,

 

Following will be of interest to anybody with 57-67 (at least )mopar convertible , switches vary , possibly ---but the design to be described was common. I could see power window switches doing this too.

 

What happened :

 

While riding around , top down, I noticed ammeter fluctuating wildly to full charge for a full second or so then waving around and then normal ; I realized later in the drive,  it was repeating about every 5-6 minutes. So I made mental note, damn mechanical regulator, (which I love!) must be  burned points again  , continued ride for 2-3 hours .

Once back , Top would not go up , it moved about a foot and just stopped. Tried again a few minutes later and it went up (whew-rain coming) . =What is this now? =  (*breaker was still hot….) . Pulled cable off battery fast.

 

So got into switch, the switch was actually “stuck onâ€?  in down direction, so top was continuously trying to go down for 3 hours! But what happened was 20 amp circuit breaker would open after a second* (thank you god) cutting off power. Otherwise harness fire or burned up top motor , generator or regulator? . So it drew a lot of power (30-40 amps+ ) for a second , as motor was stalled dead at down,  breaker opened , then generator replaced that power into battery  , then back to normal till breaker closed again, repeat over and over . The reason it shows CHARGE, not discharge is top connects direct  to battery + lead, power to top does not pass through ammeter. So when running top, it lowers the  battery voltage, regulator turns on generator or alternator to “ full onâ€?, shows a big real charge, cannot keep up with that short, but tries, so you see a big full scale charge. This raises hell with regulator and generator and top motor. May burn them out.

 

So decided I needed a new switch ---went on Ebay , 220 each (!!!!) = Apparently a known issue . So two approaches,----- I found a 40A standard  â€˜toggle switchâ€? SPDT and checked hole,  bezel etc ; by drilling slightly more oversize, looked like it  could be made to work. But non stock looking toggle bat handle. I had gotten that kind of switch before,  for a 64 Mustang top motor upgrade (was manual top)  from hydro E lectric , an online convert parts guy . Also had gotten 300 hoses from him.

 

As I had the old switch out , decided nothing to lose vs. 200$. So got it open by carefully prying back 4 die cast fold ins with small sharp dike or wire cutter, small screwdriver . Once open pretty simple, V shaped contact , looked ok, it sits on the middle feed contact, moves by lever bat “end “ sliding on inside of vee ,--- but all was loose , copper vee just flopping around(?)  why it fell down and “madeâ€? the close  side of switch. It looked like missing a spring or something.  Mystified ----how can this ever work?   

 

Then I Noticed slider part of toggle is made of nylon , looks “swagedâ€? into metal bat that is the outside handle you move , but closer look , it is supposed to slide out . Inside the hollow  nylon and up into hollow bat is a tiny spring like a ball point spring but maybe 1/16“  or 3/64â€? diameter . Repeat tiny. Nylon is supposed to slide out ,  pressed out by that spring. Which would hold vee straight in middle, and hold bat straight out.  .

 

Stuck in there now ,  by rock hard grease!!! Same affliction as wiper motor park cams, hardened grease on nylon parts . So cleaned out with WD 40 , put 30 W oil on it reassembled , works great, back into car.

 

So, try the toggle on your top. If it is obviously real floppy in the middle, the  spring may be  getting stuck, or is stuck . When fixed it will self center pretty good –you can feel spring action . I had noticed mine was sort of sagging down, lot of play, but it worked, so what.  Know better now! You might not be as lucky with harness etc.

 

Plus I know the hard way,  that on 57-59, if you push “downâ€?  switch while top is still latched, (or it “pushes itselfâ€?) the big aluminum main arm in back will snap right  off at the pivot bolt……talk about unobtanium.

 

Heads up!

 

Stay safe ,

 

john

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