Oh, and one more thing…learned the hard
way. If the transmission is out of the car after the
transmission has been rebuilt, it is very easy to remove the
control cable housing (marked in yellow in the above jpg). It
is exceedingly difficult to remove the housing with the
transmission in the car. Remove the housing and check to see
if the spring lock to the transmission control cable receiver
is oriented correctly. The spring lock can be installed either
way, upside down or right side up, which means that, if it is
mounted upside down, the spring lock must be pulled (with
tiny tiny fabricated needle nose pliers) instead of pushed
with a screwdriver to release the control cable like it shows
in the book.
The unique tiny tiny needle nose pliers is
now part of my extensive, growing collection of
Chrysler-specific tools.
After the transmission is in the car, if
you don’t know the spring lock is upside-down, you can push on
the spring lock for days-months-years with a screwdriver and
never get the control cable to release.
Henry Mitchell 300C
Just a semi grey beard observation on
this,
Really should send to Don V unless you
are truly experienced. Out of maybe ten - 15 trans rebuilt
over the past 30 + years including two by George, I had
hassles with about half, including both done by
George.He made good on one , no problem, other than all
the logistic hassle it caused, the other one was not
found out till installed years later. Aside from making
good, the issue is cars are hung up on lift, junk from
failures gets into converters, packing, shipping back and
forth twice, mechanic labor 4 times, etc on and on. lots
of wasted time and $. Aggravation....
Just sayin... Exhaust has to come down,
converter changed or cleaned, E brake, the shift cable
party starts. etc etc . When Don took apart he found some
errors. something left out . Plus many of our cars have
"Plymouth transmissions " from failures long ago taken to
Amco trans, you got next one off the Amco shelf, may not
have the larger array of clutch discs in a 300 trans,
different governor etc.
While on this, I learned from Don the
hard way that different parts from different years do not
always interchange due to tolerance and design changes.Do
not take trans apart into boxes of "trans parts" which i
did, causing hassles when all mixed up. Keep one trans
together or its parts. Cover the input splines carefully
with good grease and a plastic bag and store full of
fluid, then bag whole thing. If you just put in a
corner even climate controlled they rust inside.I Had
dragged around three cores for years,were of no use when
opened due to that. Same thing happened to Bruce Brownell
on several rebuilt ones....
We also had a C trans that JY had in
and out 5 times , no reverse , trans seemed and was
perfect. Drove us crazy. It turns out the reverse blocker
valve was coming out due to slight governor residual
pressure when stopped , that pressure was correctly
blocking reverse--trans thought it was moving in a
forward direction ---when it was in fact stopped. . An
Awfully subtle thing , as when out of car not running, or
pan off, the blocker valve goes back into hiding. Don told
me to check(!) Found it! Stuff like that can drive you
crazy, in and out of car so many times. Gets real old real
fast.
Anyway, trying to help, FYI, --it is
something where experience is just so valuable.... and the
usable cores are, not surprisingly, drying up....
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