Re: {Chrysler 300} Torsion Bars + Eyebrows
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Torsion Bars + Eyebrows



Concerning OEM manufacturing, I've discovered that most of the components that I disassemble and restore were given -- at best -- a brisk "fogging" of paint, often with no primer. As a matter of fact, I often can remove 50+ year old factory paint with compressed air only - no abrasive.  While original cars are arguably more valuable, everything I restore/paint is prepped with an etch primer and often more than one coat of paint.

Thanks for the education!  I've often wondered why the 'brows' are prone to rust...

KB

On Sun, Feb 20, 2022 at 3:53 PM Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Also, it isn’t really fair to conclude that methodical use of modern metal treatments and coatings will fare much better than what was originally used unless you are subjecting the vehicle to the same punishing environments that many of these cars saw daily.  
 
These modern metal treatments have been tested under conditions far worse than what our cars would be exposed to, even as daily drivers in the northeast or Des Moines, IA. I've reviewed the tests, which were done back a few decades ago by high-quality restoration publications, such as Skinned Knuckles or Classic Auto Restorer. I'm satisfied with the results of their tests and of my own tests on rusty areas of my truck, which sits outside all year long in the northeast.
 
Cars were built to a price point that the vehicle's market segment can afford, and still make the company a good profit. So compromises were made. When we restore our cars, we don't have those constraints. So we can overbuild our cars to our satisfaction.
 
Ron



From: Ryan Hill [mailto:ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2022 3:57 PM
To: Ron Waters
Cc: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Torsion Bars + Eyebrows

Just a comment on the subject of vehicle engineering and metal prep. I’m a natural skeptic so I’ve always assumed that whenever I see a product that could easily have been improved at a very low cost, it was by design. Am I way off base thinking that not fully dipping a fender or adding a shield could well have been a conscious decision? 

These cars were never designed to last very long and in most cases didn’t. Most of the classic cars we enjoy have undergone extensive reconstruction to save them from decay, much of which could have been avoided with improved design. 

Also, it isn’t really fair to conclude that methodical use of modern metal treatments and coatings will fair much better than what was originally used unless you are subjecting the vehicle to the same punishing environments that many of these cars saw daily.  

Ryan Hill

On Feb 20, 2022, at 9:13 AM, Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Well, if you've ever seen, and tried to remove, the undercoating from the directly-exposed inner fenders of a late 50s Mopar, you see that the undercoating did its job. Those inner fenders would have been swiss cheese without it. So if that kind of protection had been applied right up to the inner edge of the eyebrows, it would have likely been a non-issue. But they cheaped out and it cost them.
 
When I did my 58 Plymouth, the fenders were media blasted inside and out. Then a thick layer of Bill Hirsh Miracle Paint (similar to POR-15) was applied to the problem areas of the fender (inner eyebrows, lower rear part of the fender where the reinforcement brace is welded) as a barrier coat, then the entire fender was epoxy primed. Twenty years later, no problems. Same procedure for the inner quarters and rear wheel well openings, BTW.
 
Ron

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