Re: {Chrysler 300} Temperature

[John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi , just went through this , someone put a 2 row core in my car which has a b block 383 ( it is a 58 dodge but same deal going on .. ran hotter than normal ) . So , earlier pre 60 cars had 22” core wide max opening  but taller by and inch or two , however the bottom longer part is kind of shielded by the frame . The 60 up has a ~ 24 mount opening, a shorter height  radiator  but they used a 22 core still , the wings cover the extra inch . ( this from a 62 I have , newer than that I do not know ; I personally have never seen a 24 wide core installed , even in ac ram cars ) — comment ? 

The 58 had a homemade fan shroud installed   , good workmanship actually , polished stainless(!) indicating prior owner was fighting overheat . After a drive hoses got rock hard , always on edge of blowing off coolant . Just not happy . Fan a long way from core , 

The real problem is a two row radiator cannot reject enough heat to cool a big block , it has nothing or little to do with all the other variables imho . Driving on highway provides plenty of air , still runs toward hot, when you slow down .  Heat rejection is 1/3 more, on 3 row , a  huge leap . So was on way to changing to three row core(  really a  B block requirement ) but bottom tank is smaller on the two row , it does not fit three row core ( top was all I looked  at, seemed ok for both) = wrong assumption   . 

3-4 row new are 1 k (!) . But the added row increases the radiator thickness toward the fan , important to know .  Space to fan indicates ? It once had a three row + 

The three ( or any row ) vintage core as it ages also has  a problem I did not know about , these radiators are prone to corrosion right where the tubes enter the plate under the top tank ; radiator guy said can’t fix that it will leak there in months . A  Factory swaged joint . A new core includes a new top plate , this  joint is then new fyi . So my core looked great but was not useable , close inspection showed evidence of glue or epoxy repair at that point under tank on passenger side , so radiator guy was correct .

On this non concours car ( not a three hundred. ) a driver,  I ended up with new 4 row aluminum 22” one for under 200 on ebay , 1.5” at least closer to fan , but for a 300 probably have to spend the big dollars .

 Used might be dicey over this joint corrosion.

I don’t like look of aluminum , should have painted , but well made , apparently from China , welded , had to drill new holes in flange .. took a while to find correct upper inlet location , generally either near center or way over on passenger side . Inlet  pipe I think 1.5 is smaller , you can buy adapter sleeve , — I realize club doing restoration may not want this , but an option to know about . It sure won’t run hot with 4 rows … 

Hope this helps!

Input welcome . 

John G 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 15, 2022, at 11:12 PM, D.C. Mason <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thanks guys,

Sounds like the engines are fine at the temps I’m seeing (so far).   I wondered, with the 62 especially, because the previous owner installed a newer wider/thinner radiator (like the kind you’d see on a circa 1970 mopar) and there is too much clearance between the radiator and the fan blades (non a/c).  So at idle it’s not pulling air through as efficiently as it maybe should.  I may put in a thicker fan spacer to close the gap temporarily.  Eventually will find an original radiator, but in the meantime this is working.  I use 180 degree thermostats, and normally drill a 1/8” hole in them.  

V/r,

dave & Kya

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 15, 2022, at 9:17 PM, dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:



You describe what are perhaps the maximum range of normal. Our cars should run between 180-190 and as high as 220 in the heat using an air conditioner. 

 

I have 9 and none see 220/230 or 240/250 degrees, ever. However I agree it is likely considered normal in the shop and owners manual. Temps like those would have me looking for an obstructed radiator or poor air flow/fan/shroud fitment. 

 

Just an opinion based on experience.

 

Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: "kmaniak via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2022 7:27pm
To: "petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx" <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>, "chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Temperature

Cooling system 101 - Our cars were originally equipped with 180 degree thermostats.  This means that the thermostat will begin to open and circulate engine coolant at 180 degrees.  Actual operating temperature will go higher.  According to the service manual, non A/C cars were equipped with 14 pound radiator caps and A/C cars were equipped with 16 pound radiator caps.  Pressurizing the cooling system raises the boiling temperature of the coolant.  A 14 pound cap raises the boiling point to 238 degrees.  A 16 pound cap raises the boiling point to 260 degrees.  Given the cap pressures selected by the factory, they anticipated non A/C cars to run 220-230 degrees with normal driving.  They anticipated A/C cars would run 240-250 degrees.  These coolant temperatures should be considered normal and will not have a detrimental effect on the engine.

Chris the K MANIAC

-----Original Message-----
From: D.C. Mason <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, Apr 14, 2022 7:37 pm
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Temperature

Hello group,

Interrogative for those who can answer-

What is the max temp on a hot day our engines should get to?  I am imagining aiming an infrared temp sensor at the thermostat housing.  For both our 62 (383) and 64 (361), I will see up to about 208 degrees F.  Guessing that’s approaching the limit…

Thanks,

dave & Kya

Sent from my iPhone

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